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C6 2.7 Sump (Oil Pan) Removal and Oil Pump change. |
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onthecut
 
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  Member No: #2793
Location: West Mids |
I couldn't find much relating specifically to the C6 on this and I think there are some differences if looking at LR sites, so if you need to do the job --- First -- yes, you do need to remove the oil pan (the tin bit of the sump assembly) to change the oil pump. Undo and remove or swing away the brace that runs across under the back edge of the sump. Next - and the biggest issue by far, you need to lower the front downpipe assembly as it does not allow enough room to access or remove the flywheel end sump bolts. It is secured to the turbo by the same sort of clamp used on the joint underneath by the flexi section and it is access to it that is the pain. The bulbous part of the downpipe has a tin shield around it. If you follow that up to the top on the radiator facing side of the pipe, you will find a smaller, separate, curved shield to the right of it (looking from the front) and it is this that covers the clamp and its bolt. This is secured by a couple of 10mm bolts, one top, one bottom. All this is tucked behind the web of coolant and other hoses and I really wouldn't like to guess whether it's feasible to get to with them all in place. As it happens, I had removed the whole rad / cooler pack and so had a clear line of sight. Removing the main hose from the cylinder block stub and letting the hoses flop down gives a proper access. No need to remove the Lambda sensor, at least if it has as much spare cable as mine. You then need to undo the single 10mm bolt that fastens the downpipe support bracket to the block (or whatever). The pipe will now be loose and there is enough flex in the flexi section to let it drop and give access to the sump bolts. Undo and remove all the sump bolts. If it's like mine, the sump will then go nowhere and a careful pry will be needed to start it separating. You will then find it won't come off because it is fouled at the rear by the rear downpipe and at the front by the aircon compressor bracket. Forget the fouling at the rear and focus on the front. A bit of jiggling will get it lined fairly parallel to the bottom of the offending bracket, with just the very furthest protrusions of the sump lip caught. A very, very modest pry with a broad blade driver will pop it out with no harm done. For the oil pump change you will first need to go through the procedure for removing the cam belt and get everything locked in position.You will need to remove the aux. belt pulley (six male Torx bolts) and then the cam belt pulley off the nose of the crank. Don't try undoing this with the belts in place as there is no locating key and you will likely cause damage. The main bolt is very tight and considerable force is required to get it moving.(It is conventional thread) According to Citroen you should not rely on the timing locating tool to hold the flexplate, but use a special tool to engage the ring gear. This tool is around the £90 mark and requires removal of the starter motor, which looks like even more work. I noticed a small shield plate at the bottom of the flywheel housing and taking this off revealed a handily placed torque converter retaining bolt head. I used a piece of metal to wedge this against the side of the aperture, against the rotation and this seemed to work fine. Haven't figured the reverse bit yet, but it's got to be quicker than having the starter out ! Once you have the cam sprocket off remove the adjustable tensioner from the top corner of the pump and all the bolts around its flange. From underneath and looking up toward the bottom of the pump, undo and remove the four bolts that are within the sump housing. Even with everything undone, the pump was stuck fast on mine. you need to be careful with knocking or prying as ytou really don't want to damage the gasket face the pump sits on. Damage that and it looks like a considerable extra amount of work. Finally got mine moving by making up a small slide hammer with an M6 thread bolt on the end and screwing it into one of the lower timing cover bolt holes. Got it started one side, then the other. Curiously, the oil pick up pipe spigot doesn't engage the aperture in the oil pump; only the aperture in the sump sandwich plate, so the condition of the top face of the gasket the pump sits on is quite critical to making sure you get some suck. With the old pump off, cleaned up the gasket and other mating face and applied some 'Wellseal' to the mating parts of the gasket. The new pump comes with a plastic retainer in the middle. I removed this and holding the pump upside down poured in some gear oil into the input port and turned the rotor until oil emerged from the output port. Don't know if you are supposed to prime them, but given the work involved in fitting just not worth taking a chance. I refitted the retainer, ensuring the flat sides of the rotor were vertical. Drained the excess oil from the input and wiped the mating face and then offered the pump into place, taking great care not to rag the gasket face. Took a couple of goes to get the rotor to engage the crank, but when it does, it's unambiguous. I carefully and evenly pushed the pump home. It seems to be necessary to put in at least a couple of the vertical face retaining bolts to draw the pump in far enough to allow the refitment of the vertical bolts within the sump. I'm guessing that the new rubber flange joint which comes with the pump holds it out a little. Time then to fit and fasten all the bolts. The pump also carries the crank oil seal. I managed to b****r this up in no time. It was so tight on the shaft, I first thought I had the wrong seal but I now realise the inner part of the seal assembly is some material harder than the usual nitrile and I had managed to get it folded over on itself, scrapping the seal.Going to have to dig out the proper fitting tool as it is obviously necessary to properly and gently expand the first stage of the seal into place. That's where I'm presently at and make no mistake, it's a time consuming job. Don't forget you will need to have some means of supporting the engine from above, as you obviously can't use the sump. Mike. |
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onthecut
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Member No: #2793
Location: West Mids |
PS. My sump had significant external rust. If you have one that gives out and you need to replace it, be aware the LR version is not the same and will not fit. Mike. |
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321dave
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  Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Many thanks Onthecut for that great description of the oil pump replacement procedure. The bit I'm focusing on myself is the oil sump pan removal part for now. Your reason for replacing the oil pump was due to concern of a potential pump failure. Does your engine exhibit any noise issues like another forum member who also had issues with noise and d ecided to change the oil pump which periodically seemed to help, but the noise eventually returned if I'm remembering the forum post correctly. Do you have any photos of the condition of the original oil pump? That would be great to see. Did you see any defects on the inside of your rusty oil sump pan? And was it very dirty inside? |
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gmerry
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 Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Mike, great description. Yes, there is a Polish forum member who has performed at least two oil pump changes: I wonder if he recorded the work and could post a step by step guide. With reference to the LR installations, the major differences are the transmission interface (different engine block/bellhousing), larger high capacity sump with special seals designed to work at extreme vehicle angles, a completely different single turbocharger forced induction system, different engine injection software but same ECU, a larger mechanically driven engine cooling fan. The cooling system has different hoses and layout to suit the installation etc. |
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onthecut
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Member No: #2793
Location: West Mids |
The main reason I went for the oil pump change were the many posts on LR sites about the failure of the casting that holds the timing belt adjustable tensioner. This seems to be a much bigger issue than any failure of the pump to deliver adequate oil pressure. The first couple of C6 I looked at had definite noise and rattle issues at start up; this one I've bought doesn't so I'm hoping replacing the pump will keep it that way. While the outside of the oilpan had significant corrosion, the inside was absolutely spot on. As far as I could see, the main difference with the LR sump was that it is deeper, which probably wouldn't matter until you tried to fit the plastic engine undertray, but it also had a sensor provision in the flywheel end which just wouldn't work with our front downpipe arrangement. Mike. |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi, just in case anyone is picking up this thread at this point, there is no recorded history of any PSA application of this engine having an oil-pump failure (tensioner mount). IMHO at least. there is no rational for changing out the oil-pump whilst doing a cambelt change. The reasons why the LR have problems and PSA don't have previously been stated. regards G |
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