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C6 2.7 Oil Pump Change. Flywheel locking tool required ?
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onthecut   
Sat Oct 08 2016, 03:13pm
Joined: Sep 20 2016
Member No: #2793
Location: West Mids
 Having finally acquired the new toy, decided the obvious first job was the cambelt as it's bang on ten years and just reaching 100k. I then became aware of the potential oil pump issue (assuming PSA used the same pumps as Land Rover)and have decided to replace this also.

Just in time, I discovered the crank cam belt pinion does not have any locating device, so my usual method of slackening the bolt first with the air gun would have been an expensive mistake. I can go on and pin the cams and the flywheel with the timing tools, but i have serious reservations about relying on the locating pin in the flexplate to withstand the force of undoing the crank bolt; I understand they are pretty tight. Land Rover show a dedicated flywheel locking tool for the job, which I presume sits in place of the starter motor.

Any tips or experiences most appreciated.

Thanks, Mike.
gmerry   
Sat Oct 08 2016, 04:09pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 Hi Mike, a pretty good place to start is the Mechanics Guide and the downloads available in the Technical section.

What do those documents say about undoing the crankshaft nut?

Regarding pump replacement, I'm not sure that there has been ANY issues with the cambelt tensioner mount (=oil pump) on a PSA east west installation. I wouldn't follow the Landrover experience without something more specific.

Regards
onthecut   
Sat Oct 08 2016, 06:12pm
Joined: Sep 20 2016
Member No: #2793
Location: West Mids
 Reading it very carefully, tucked away in one line, the guide does indeed say to 'block the ring gear' using tool 1K.

As I have the new pump anyway I will press on and fit it and it will be interesting to see if the original does correspond to the pattern that breaks in LR vehicles. If it is the same, I wonder if the absence of it as an issue with PSA fitments is down to (I suspect) the huge disparity in numbers sold by the respective companies ?

While I'm on the gloom trail, the other thing I have heard of as an issue with the C6 is failure of the thermostat housing. Is that something that's worth changing on a preventive basis ?

Mike.
gmerry   
Sat Oct 08 2016, 06:40pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 Hi, the vibration modes are very different for the Landrover and PSA installations: PSA got lucky on this. Remember LR drive a rudy great big fan off the non drive end


regards
G
cruiserphil   
Sat Oct 08 2016, 07:50pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 Mike,
As far as I understand you do not have to release the crankshaft nut! The cam belt pulley is separately bolted with 3? bolts. The flywheel locking tool is purely for timing and wouldn't withstand the torque. I haven't done a timing belt yet but e3steve and 321Dave I know have!

Best regards,

Phil C.
cruiserphil   
Sat Oct 08 2016, 07:53pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 Mike,
Just spotted your question about the coolant outlet tank (thermostat housing). The answer is a definite YES! However search for the fantastic discovery by VAHO on how to install the low coolant function on the C6!

Best regards,

Phil C.
Trainman   
Mon Oct 10 2016, 11:42am

Joined: Apr 12 2010
Member No: #86
Location: Penwortham
 Coolant sensor retro fit is in the 'Super Sticky' - Click Here -
onthecut   
Mon Oct 10 2016, 04:08pm
Joined: Sep 20 2016
Member No: #2793
Location: West Mids
 I take on board the point that PSA don't have an issue with the pump lug breaking, but just for reference, mine (2006) is fitted with the susceptible type pump. Even if you're not minded to change the oil pump, might at least be worth a careful look at belt time.

Also worth a look, unless I've just been unlucky, is the external condition of the lower part of the sump. Mine has really significant rust and I suspect not much further ahead would have gone through. Going to give it a good going over once I get it off. For this part, the Citroen part is both cheaper than the LR part and is significantly different (£130 odd against £140 odd)

Have ordered up the apparently infamous thermostat housing for when I eventually get round to reassembly.

Mike.
321dave   
Mon Oct 10 2016, 04:38pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
onthecut wrote ...

I take on board the point that PSA don't have an issue with the pump lug breaking, but just for reference, mine (2006) is fitted with the susceptible type pump. Even if you're not minded to change the oil pump, might at least be worth a careful look at belt time.

Also worth a look, unless I've just been unlucky, is the external condition of the lower part of the sump. Mine has really significant rust and I suspect not much further ahead would have gone through. Going to give it a good going over once I get it off. For this part, the Citroen part is both cheaper than the LR part and is significantly different (£130 odd against £140 odd)

Have ordered up the apparently infamous thermostat housing for when I eventually get round to reassembly.

Mike.


HI Onthecut,
I also have a rusty sump pan. I have a new pan bought for nearly a year or so, but everytime i'am ready to install it, a coolant pipe starts to go and leak on me. So i'm 3 pipes away from a totally new setup. But i will eventually get to replace the old pan. Did you have a missing or cracked sump cover at any stage?

Mine was badly cracked, but its replaced now as well as everything else. , If i keep going i'll have a new C6 in 2 yrs time!! which would be great.

Just out of curiosity, was/is it difficult to remove the sump pan? It does seem to have a flat cross beam brace partly in the way.
onthecut   
Mon Oct 10 2016, 07:59pm
Joined: Sep 20 2016
Member No: #2793
Location: West Mids
 Hi Dave.

I don't know yet. As far as I can see, I can't take it off directly because the flywheel end bolts can't be undone enough due to the forward exhaust downpipe. It looks a real sod to get at the clip at the turbo to undo the pipe, so I'm taking the radiator out. (Got to anyway because I suspect the intercooler is toast).

The brace you mention is in the way, but that really is just two or three minutes to shift -- remove the two bolts either end and that's it. I only took out three, slackened the other and swung it out of the way.

I have to say that on first inspection the plastics they have used on the hoses seems s**t. Nowhere near as good as a little 206 I have and there seems so much of it. Only started out to do the belts and at this rate I'll have the whole of the front of the car in bits ! On balance though, still not as bad as doing a 2.1XM head gasket in situ.

Mike.
321dave   
Mon Oct 10 2016, 09:08pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
 I removed my radiator in January. I posted some photos at the time on the forum. As Phil again pointed out there is a hidden screw or bolt lower down on the front (very hard to find) But when you remove the bumper (be careful not to scratch the front wings) best get help to remove the bumper (only takes a minute when all the bolts are free) you can access a lot more. Undo a few bolts for the fan shroud and you can pull the front part forward and slide out the radiator. Then the intercooler is just there. To be honest, if I did it all again I'd fully remove the fan shroud with radiator and intercooler as it would be cleaner repair, and in your case the intercooler is further inside it anyway. Best remove the cassette and install them well as the other way you'll just end up banging the radiator fins on the very close coolant or hydraulic hoses. But that's just my thoughts.

onthecut   
Tue Oct 11 2016, 06:38am
Joined: Sep 20 2016
Member No: #2793
Location: West Mids
 Thanks guys for the pointers on radiator removal. Bumper off today, all being well. One thing I did notice when stripping the arch liner and undertray bits out to start the job was how much better designed the lane and parking sensor mounts and wiring are compares to the 04 - 07 C5.

They seem to have given them some thought on the C6, whereas when I recently did my C5 the lane sensors setup really did look like an afterthought.

Mike.
321dave   
Tue Oct 11 2016, 09:05am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
 I got this far with the removal of the various front end components. But on reflection i think i'd go a bit further next time particularly if i was replacing the intercooler in the future.
321dave   
Tue Oct 11 2016, 09:07am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin

321dave   
Tue Oct 11 2016, 09:10am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
321dave wrote ...

I got this far with the removal of the various front end components. But on reflection i think i'd go a bit further next time particularly if i was replacing the intercooler in the future. I cant find the photo of the elusive hidden bolt that holds the shroud/cassette in place, but Phil has posted a photo previously.
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