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Coolant level sensor retrofit solved. |
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vaho
 
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  Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn |
So the best thing is to stop coolant reaching the wires in case of a crack in sensor. I think the only way to do that is to create some way it can flow out from the sensor before the connector. One possibility is to drill a hole into the sensor but that exposes it´s internals to the moisture, maybe there is some one way plug that lets water to flow in one direction only, I don´t know. On the other hand, maybe we are just overthinking. Especially if you have installed a brand new sensor. Now we have no fears about coolant loss and not knowing about it, which can lead to an expensive repair, but we have a fear of damaging the ECU instead, which can lead to an expensive repair. You choose... |
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gmerry
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   Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
For peace of mind, use a 3 or 4 core cable that has integral waterblocking: like these Belden cables. - Click Here - regards G |
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vaho
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Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn |
These are also not good because the capillary action starts from the bare wire and the gap between conductor wires and inner insulation can not be sealed in any way, by stranded conductor at least. It is therefore probably better to use cables with solid conductor, the only thing is that solid ones are usually too thick. | ||
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vaho
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Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn |
Another thought, it is possible to buy additional connectors and plugs and just put a piece of solid conductor wire between the existing wire somwhere along the line. Then the water travels to that connector and assuming that with solid conductor wire there is no capillary action, it can not go further. Ah, well, my brain is smoking already... PSA with it´s brain capacity should have been working it out years ago, if they just cared a bit more. | ||
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PIT
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  Member No: #2671
Location: Sofia |
I was thinking the same. The wires (+ and signal) to enter a small box where they become solid wires for a few centimeters and then they go out again with normal cable. The box is to protect the solid wires, which can be naked, so there is no place for capillary action. | ||
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
The military and oil and gas industry use signal wires with waterblock that works 100%. I've stood on the production line and watched them making it. Don't reinvent the wheel! regards |
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HiPOL
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 Member No: #2699
Location: Gorzów |
Hi guys. I did my installation yesterday. Everything works great. Good job vaho ! I`d like to share with you some details that were different than in tutorial, maybe it will help those who didn`t install it yet  .My car is 2.7 HDi, built in the end of 2007. Ignition cable was already there, so i didn`t have to install new pin, just connected new cable with existing one. In my C6 there is no option to enable/disable coolant level sensor with Lexia or Diagbox. I checked all possible menus and didnt find it. To be honest this was stoping me from installing it earlier. I was afraid this sensor option was totaly removed from BSI in my car, but when i installed sensor it automaticaly started working, without any digital help My electrician specialist was analysing the sensor and he found that it`s not only sending 0/1 information , but signal formed as sinusoid. That`s why when you disconnect sensor it doesn`t pop up message. Open/closed circuit of connected sensor changes shape of sinusoid , BSI reads it and pops up message. In my opinion the story about the capilary action is just an excuse made up by Citroen bookkeepers. As mentioned above it`s so easy to avoid or block the capilary action... (if it ever was there). I think they were just cutting costs, that`s all. Many companies do that nowadays, why not Citroen ? |
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vaho
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Member No: #2228
Location: Tallinn |
Well done! The capillary action however could have had something to do with removing the sensors. Here is the picture from the result of some capillary action, the BSI plug and the culprit was coolant temperature sensor: not C6 though |
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e3steve
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 Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
This is totally preventable, and I've done so on a few series-1 Pickarseholes and C3s for friends. Unplug the connectors, clean them up with a toothbrush dipped in WD40 or Ferrosol, dry off then squeeze a thick film of electrical silicone grease (RS part nr 494-124) into the female connector plug, at the receptacle facing, pressing the nozzle of the grease tube against the plastic facing. Stipple the grease into the receptacles with a clean toothbrush and re-seat the connector(s). You may need to work the connectors home, as the grease will present a degree of 'hydraulic locking'. If the male pins in the ECU are corroded beyond recognition, then the ECU will need to be sent for repair. If the pins are not totally eroded to nothing, or haven't broken off due to weakening via the electrolysis, then the corrosion is best removed by pouring boiling water (yes, you read that right!) into the infected connector-seat pit and vigorously shaking the water out. I finish off by drying the pit(s) with compressed air. The male pins are bonded into the pits, and the ECUs are sealed, so no water gets into the ECU itself. The water -- it must be poured immediately from a just-boiled kettle (or use a steam jet) -- evaporates very quickly. Don't argue! I've revived a dozen connectors using this method, and the cars are still fault-free... |
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HiPOL
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Member No: #2699
Location: Gorzów |
@ vaho - are you sure this "something yellow-green" on attached picture is coolant fluid ? I`ve seen very similar grease inside plugs in PSA cars. It`s supposed to avoid/stop corrosion or oxidation of pins. Usually they put it in plugs located in water risky places like ABS/ESP or gerabox. | ||
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Citrofix
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 Member No: #1722
Location: Krokstadelva |
Hi, I am going to put this Level sensor on my car, and found one from an old donor C5. I remember the action to remove this sensor due to the capillary effect, when I was working at Citroën. It is easy to see this capillary effect when you solder a multicore lead, you see the solder just get sucked into the lead. To prevent antifreeze entering the Electronics, I took out the Three female pins in the Connector, degreased them, and put on epoxy glue to the area where the leads are crimped on to the Connector, this will stop antifreeze entering inside the leads. I did also put on glue at the sensor, to seal around the to bare sensing pins. So now I am quite sure this will never be a future problem. Best regards, Christian, Norway |
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ul9601
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Member No: #1975
Location: Auckland |
Just heads-up regarding sensor part availability. Rigbye Citroen initially told me 1306F2 is on back order then superseded by 1323V1 (according to LE-2006 supersession document). But we all know that is not true (as Vaho said it is the whole expansion tank, presumably without the sensor - up to RPO 10674 figure shows the sensor but after that the sensor is not shown) 1306E3 is NFP (I assume it means NLA?). There is a possibility both sensor parts may be sitting on some dealers' parts shelves (I think furriegurrie got one brand new), but I'm not fortunate enough to be in the UK to call up a bunch of parts vendors to check this so looks like I'll have to go second hand option. |
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e3steve
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Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
The 'Cartier' capacitive sensor probe is the same as those on the Pug 407 (and probably many others). The exact cutout shape is delineated in the top of the recess in the degassing (header!) tank. |
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ul9601
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Member No: #1975
Location: Auckland |
Do you think this would work? | ||
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
No, the Peugeot Partner tank is too small (not enough expansion volume and reserve capacity) and won't have the connections for the TWO return bleed lines. Keep looking. regards Here is the correct item (£20 plus shipping) - Click Here - |
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