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Engine tapping when hot |
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gmerry
 
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   Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Dave, the oil pickup tube is a long proven design for dozens of Ford engine types: I would not worry too much about this. To "test the joint", there will be nothing you can do with the oil sump removed, other than unbolting the pickup tube and examining the O ring. Make sure you have a new O ring to hand when you reattach the pickup tube. Also make sure you know the correct torque for the bolts and check for any thread pickup. regards G |
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321dave
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 Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Hi G, Thanks for that advice. I'll tread carefully. I'll also take plenty of photos and post what I find up here. Hopefully all is ok and not very dirty. It's difficult to know how well the previous owners looked after the engine. |
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HiPOL
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 Member No: #2699
Location: Gorzów |
Next week i`ll be replacing oil pump again. I`ll install the first , original one and see what happens with the noise. This should give some clue if i`m searching in good spot ... ? | ||
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Thanks Hipol. Could you post some photos of the oil pump if you get a chance next week, and if you find anything else strange. Hopefully you can get an answer to why the noise returned when you investigate the oil pump. | ||
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Hi G, you mentioned using forte engine flush to help with the tappet noise. Just wondering had you any experience of the liquid moly engine flush? And if using forte. Any thoughts about using say the top end oil treatment they also sell after using the flush? I'm kind of new to this really as I've never had a older engine than the 2.7hdi. |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Dave, my limited experience was soley with Mitsubishi roller hydraulic tappet engines (as fitted to Evos, Galants, FTOs etc from late 1990s into mid 2000s (all petrols). The specified service interval for these engines was mostly 10,000 miles/yearly and the oil grade was 30w/40 API SL. The garage that I used at the time offered me cures to the very noisy tapping at idle of either replacing 16 tappets (ouch Mitsubishi spare parts are very pricy) or changing service interval to every 6 months and using the Forte flush at each change. The oil specified was also changed to a Ford specification with a lower viscosity, a 5w-30 (can't remember the spec). After the first Forte flush/oil spec change, there was a noticeable improvement. After a year (3rd oil flush), the noisy tappet problem had gone away. Beyond the above, I've had no other Forte experience so can't comment on their effectiveness. Regards G |
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Thanks for that G. | ||
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HiPOL
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Member No: #2699
Location: Gorzów |
Here are pictures of oil pump. I replaced new one with my original old. Tapping is gone. There is small difference between the sound of cold and hot engine yet, but i`m happy with the result i have now. Looks like new pump is broken... |
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HiPOL
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Member No: #2699
Location: Gorzów |
Error occurred, can`t upload second picture... | ||
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
HiPOL, thanks very much for your feedback regarding the oil pump issue. Did you restore or clean the original oil pump to improve the engine noise issues you had when you reinstalled it? Do you know if the part numbers were the same for both oil pumps as well, leaving the structural changes aside. Can you tell in what way the new pump is broken or not functioning correctly? Thanks again for posting the photo as well. |
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HiPOL
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Member No: #2699
Location: Gorzów |
I cleaned old oil pump and just put it back on old place. Didn`t repair it and didn`t change anything in it. Now after few weeks this tapping is back again when engine is hot, but not as loud as it was with new pump and it sounds different. I will be investigating the problem in close future. My oil is about to change so i change it for MOTUL, cause many of my friends say this oil strongly reduces various engine sounds. If there won`t be any improvement i disassemble it for pieces to find the source of tapping. New pump had different number cause it was replaced with new type, from 3.0 HDi engine. I have absolutelly no idea what is wrong with new pump. Didn`t disassemble it cause then i`ll lose a chance to give it back. | ||
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Hi HiPOL, thanks for coming back with your findings. Sorry to hear the ticking sound is back again. Considering the effort you put in to date with swapping the oil pump etc. The ticking might be internal wear on components. I say this as my C6 has quietened down considerably with forte top end oil treatment. I rang the technical centre of Forte for advice recently, I was very surprised when the technician advised not 4ml with oil for a larger diesel engine, but two 400ml bottles go in with the new oil and filter!! He said, that is what they advise for the PSA 2.7hdi with over 100000mls. I was a bit surprised to be honest by the quantity! So I said I only had the one bottle he said that was a good start. So I put it in with the oil, and I reduced the amount of the normal total oil by 400ml. Even though I was a bit sceptical, it appears to be helping. I also said my engine didn't have any internal sludge as far as I could see, but he said the problem in many cases is actually varnish. Which can be almost invisible, but can block little oil galleries. So, I leave in the top end oil treatment with the new oil and at the next service interval change as normal. It's not a engine flush, but it helps free tappets and anything else that might be trapped by varnish. Might be worth a try. Again it's best to ring the technical services of these companies, another good quality company supplying the garage trade is Ligui Moly from Germany. I've used that product to see if I could improve the injectors a bit as well. That also has worked well. Car drives much better now from cold as well. So, bit by bit it's improving, but I'm sure at 129,879mls there must be a small amount of wear internally on the engine. But It is sounding and driving a lot better, but has a little bit to go on noise yet (glow plugs all out soon) and who knows if time permitted (unlikely) I'd change the chain tensioner on the cams as well. That should pretty much elimate the chain rattle on start up. But I'll be happy with changing the glow plugs x 6 for now. |
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HiPOL
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Member No: #2699
Location: Gorzów |
In my engine broken glow plugs didn`t change anything (except making possible to start engine in winter). Of course it`s good to have it functional. Please let us know if it did change anything in your engine ? I`ll check Forte additive and other similar companies products. More news soon 
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Going to really try hard to finally change the glow plugs now the cold weather is starting to come in. I'll be replacing a damaged breather pipe for the intake soon so might as well try getting further in towards the plugs. |
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czarlz
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 Member No: #3806
Location: Nijmegen |
Hi All, very interesting topic. I know it has been already 5 years since the last response, but I thought it would be good to continue here. @HiPol: you mentioned different sound of the engine when cold and hot. What do you mean specifically? The reason why I am asking is because I have already a second engine with a brand new oil pump and again the engine is noisy when cold. The noise definitely comes from the area of the oil pump (aux belt off). When it becomes hot this noise is gone. Do you have any experience with those replacement oil pumps (PSA)? |
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