| C6owners :: Forums :: C6 Support :: The Garage |
<< Previous thread | Next thread >>
|
C6 Restoration |
    Please Register to enjoy additional Member Benefits |
| Author | Post | ||
321dave
 
|
|
||
   Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Hi Steve, thanks thats a very good point! Can't answer the first question yet. But, i have driven in the wet. I also found my fuel consumption has improved from my daily commute average of 21.5 to 24 Mpg. I think it's down to one new bearing. I wonder will it get better if I replace the left rear as well? |
||
|
|
|
||
gmerry
|
|
||
 Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Dave, glad you replaced the rear disk protectors. I believe that old crumbly rusty ones are responsible for a lot of the rear ABS problems. regards G |
||
|
|
|
||
|
321dave
|
|
||
|
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
gmerry wrote ... Hi Dave, glad you replaced the rear disk protectors. I believe that old crumbly rusty ones are responsible for a lot of the rear ABS problems. regards G Thanks G, The new Bosch sensors are working well. I cleaned up the old ABS ring on the older hub, but the very fine crumbs of rust are very hard to element fully. But all appears to be well at the moment. I'll update if any issues come back again. I have an old knocking sound coming from the front to investigate next, I'm going to try replacing the front anti roll bar bushes and see if that help eliminate the knock. |
||
|
|
|
||
e3steve
|
|
||
 Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
321dave wrote ... Hi Steve, thanks thats a very good point! Can't answer the first question yet. But, i have driven in the wet. I also found my fuel consumption has improved from my daily commute average of 21.5 to 24 Mpg. I think it's down to one new bearing. I wonder will it get better if I replace the left rear as well? That is going to be one very lovely C6, Dave! I would do the other hub as well. I did both of mine, about 20,000 miles ago. It's an easy job and they're not a fortune. Plus, pothole-crashing or kerbing aside, if one's suffered, the other may follow. If they're both replaced that's that's that axle sorted! |
||
|
|
|
||
|
e3steve
|
|
||
|
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
gmerry wrote ... Mine weren't perforated, so I cleaned them off and gave them a copious coating of Jenolite rust converter.Hi Dave, glad you replaced the rear disk protectors. I believe that old crumbly rusty ones are responsible for a lot of the rear ABS problems. regards G |
||
|
|
|
||
|
321dave
|
|
||
|
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Thanks Steve, I've got another 2 years to go before i can get it back to a really nice level I want. I also wanted to sort the car mechanically before any bodywork issues (galvanic corrosion issues) at the top of the doors and any other general stone chipping issues such as the lower bonnet and bumper area were fully addressed. But I must say the cars been very reliable for me (touch wood), and after seeing a 2014 5- series BMW on fire just a few hours ago, I think it's best to keep an eye on mechanical issues along the way. God, what a new BMW to be catching fire! | ||
|
|
|
||
|
321dave
|
|
||
|
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
One point of note when I was working on the rear of the car recently was the amount of rust on the fasteners and rear brackets. In many cases they broke clean away! I have one instance which I could not really fix just yet, and was wondering what people think is the best route to effecting a proper repair. | ||
|
|
|
||
|
321dave
|
|
||
|
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
 This fastener is under the right side and bolts the plastic cover to the underside of the car. The Stud/screw is in fact welded to the body! Hence the problem. |
||
|
|
|
||
|
e3steve
|
|
||
|
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
Spot-welded screw studs for the plastic nuts. I've had a couple of those (unimportant ones) shear off too, Dave... | ||
|
|
|
||
|
321dave
|
|
||
|
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
e3steve wrote ... Spot-welded screw studs for the plastic nuts. I've had a couple of those (unimportant ones) shear off too, Dave... Thanks Steve, even after spraying the bolt with penetrating oil, it didn't really help as it was to weak with rust when the small amount of torque was applied. I normally wouldnt worry but this stud holds one of the plastic under trays to the underside. I wasn't really surprised it broke, but I think I'll need to possibly weld a new bolt back in it's underside position eventually to fasten it properly. I have gorilla taped the tray to another panel for the moment. I'll be fitting new rear wheel arch liners very soon. Again, I'm experiencing a delay in getting some of the new parts. One rear liner was available within a week and the other has to be ordered from France and will take more than a few weeks I was told. |
||
|
|
|
||
|
gmerry
|
|
||
|
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Dave, I had the same problem. There is no way that a corroded M6 stud will be persuaded to release, unless possibly some heat could be applied. Usually application of heat is not possible, so its a matter of accepting the minor breakage and then "making good". regards Note, one of my pet corrosion hates is the mudguard liner speed fastener nuts. At one year old, I removed all of them and smothered in grease. Even so, they all seized in place. After removing the corroded screws/speednuts I have replaced 3 corners with stainless speed nuts and screws. |
||
|
|
|
||
|
321dave
|
|
||
|
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Hi G, many thanks. I've started where possible to replace the PSA bolts with Stainless as well. It's the only way I think. The corrosion is really bad on the bolts. I ripped through the rear felt wheel liners and eventually stopped trying to save the bolts and resorted to using a hacksaw and scrissor to remove them. I found a very small amount of corrosion as well underneath and I treated that with a wire brush and some rust converter. | ||
|
|
|
||
|
321dave
|
|
||
|
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Just noticed when parking in the sun today, a light haze of smoke rising from under the wheel arch area! Thought that seemed a bit odd and opened the bonnet and then noticed a fair bit of smoke and a definite smell of burning oil! Then i noticed a leak form the rear section of the turbo air union. Anyone seen a simliar leak from the turbo air union? Its damp with oil? could the turbo seals be leaking a bit to much oil now? My oil reading is fine, so im not losing much oil, but i must be drippping a few drops somewhere hot! Im guessing a few drops of oil has dropped down the rear of the engine onto the rear Cat or exhaust pipe to produce the burning oil vapour? Is that seal a part or something you can buy in Halfords or a motor factors?  |
||
|
|
|
||
|
321dave
|
|
||
|
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Picture of turbo rear air union pipe leak.  |
||
|
|
|
||
|
321dave
|
|
||
|
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Hi all, I finally got the chance to fit the small front anti roll bar bushes to the car this weekend and finish (weather issues). After completing the job, it was instantly tighter and the handling issue I had with sloppy suspension and brakes was totally gone. Amazing difference to the ride as well. I still have the tapping issue to deal with but I'm zoning in on that now. I believe it to be slight wear in the left link to the anti roll bar. The job of replacing the rubber bushes was very similiar to the anti-roll replacement video on YouTube here - Click Here -   |
||
|
|
|
||
 User Colour Key:Head Administrator, Administrator, C6 owner, Technical Expert, C6 Premier Discount Club |
|
Privacy Policy | Cookie Policy | Site Disclaimer | Contact Details | Warranty | Sitemap | C6 Insurance | Quick Facts | Re Call Info | Downloads | Error Codes
| Site and Graphics created by: C6Dave Forum Icons by Axialis Emotes by Seb |  |
