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e3steve   
Sat Sep 10 2016, 10:55am
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
David Hallworth wrote ...

When the diesel light comes on you can check the range on the computer, keep driving until the computer says the car is on 0 range, that way the tank should be pretty darn empty. If you're brave enough to do it....

David.
Mine seems to go from circa 20 miles (range) to just dashes. From experience I know that as soon as those dashes appear then there's less than 18 miles of (gentle) driving, depending on the terrain and topography!

I've let it get that low twice; the first time, I managed 14 miles, running out just a few metres from the fuel station pump; I had to push it to the pump as there was another car there as I rolled in. It's heavy...

I've since never allowed it to run more than ten miles showing the dashes, and I now rarely get the second warning beep!
321dave   
Sat Sep 10 2016, 11:30am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Hi Steve,
didn't even know there was a second warning beep! Ya, it's a pretty heavy car for sure!
Do you think it's a good idea putting about 5 litres of purge into the whole system? I suppose it cant really hurt? Famous last words, or could it!?
321dave   
Sat Sep 10 2016, 02:16pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
[quote]
Hi Dave, I found a copy of the MDSD (labelled security datasheet) on the manufacturer's website.

Its mostly hydrocarbons (C10-C13) plus naptha (great solvent) plus ethylhexylnitrate so as per instructions should be fine for a period of running undiluted with diesel fuel.

The suggestion to drain the filter housing, refill the fill housing with 100% cleaner and then put the rest in a near empty fuel tank with say 5 litres of fuel, sounds the most practical and safest from the point of view of not creating a fire hazard.

Thanks G, I think I'll try that approach first and see what happens, I guess the fuel filter will get very dirty fast!
321dave   
Sun Sep 11 2016, 11:11am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Here's a link to a Mercedes site I used for the purge tank purchase. Nice site, Kent is the garage owner in the video.

- Click Here -
321dave   
Mon Sep 12 2016, 12:13pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Well, today i had my usual inspection under the bonnet after arriving at work, and i found another little leak. I mention it, as its not easy to see in bad light near the oil filler cap. Its leaking at one of the bleed screws for the coolant circuit.
No problem as i have this and other pipes for fitting very soon. It was a very slow leak in any case, but worth a check just in case anybody is losing coolant (slowly). Really, all the coolant pipes should be changed out after the 10Yr mark.


e3steve   
Tue Sep 20 2016, 07:23am
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
e3steve wrote ...

Also, the cover extends over the coolant components...


321dave wrote ...

Hi Steve,
I think you might be right!! I'm not actually sure. Must check that.


No Dave, I'm wrong!

I paid closer attention to mine when I lifted the bonnet yesterday. Duuuh...

I would've laid money on the fact that there were more of the for'ard coolant components exposed.
gmerry   
Tue Sep 20 2016, 08:44am
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Hi all, in my humble opinion its best not to touch the bleed screws when doing any work on the cooling system.

Possibly the best way of filling the circuit is just to vacuum down the system and then let the vacuum refill with coolant. This way there is no (very little) trapped air that the system will take car of.

regards
G
321dave   
Tue Sep 20 2016, 09:53am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Hi Steve, no worries, im watching mine everyday until i can remove the pipe soon. The leak appears to be increasing a little bit now. I put a cloth around it to see how much comes out in the day, and it appears to be enough to just soak the small cloth, but it then drys a bit from the engine heat during the day.

I think your right G, i was sorry i followed the instructions recently by bleeding the system using that Screw. I dont think it would be leaking now. I should have known not to fiddle with 10+year old plastic bleed screws or coolant pipes. Ah well. i got a new pipe anyway to replace it soon.
321dave   
Tue Sep 20 2016, 09:57am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
321dave wrote ...

Hi Steve, no worries, im watching mine everyday until i can remove the pipe soon. The leak appears to be increasing a little bit now. I put a cloth around it to see how much comes out in the day, and it appears to be enough to just soak the small cloth, but it then drys a bit from the engine heat during the day.

I think your right G, i was sorry i followed the instructions recently by bleeding the system using that Screw. I dont think it would be leaking now. I should have known not to fiddle with 10+year old plastic bleed screws or coolant pipes. Ah well. i got a new pipe anyway to replace it soon.






Strangely, i also found alot of Condenstation (probably the warm leaking coolant)on the Spheres a few days ago. It was very wet that day.

321dave   
Fri Sep 23 2016, 11:58am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Well today the coolant leak as gotten a bit worse again. And the tank is now slowly going down. But on the positive side the purge of the injectors using 5 litres of Liqui Moly in an near empty tank has improved the driving characteristics of the engine! I'm more than happy with that. The engine sound has also improved less noisy(still have to do the glow plugs yet).

I did also as G and David had recommended and it seemed to have worked well. Only thing i'd say is it needs two days of running(with the small amount of Purge(i put 5 litres in) and then small topups of fuel to keep the car going for the rest of the week. It seems to have worked! engine is sweeter, and seems to rev better, and the gearbox also is changing better as well!! might be an increase in power.

gmerry   
Fri Sep 23 2016, 02:26pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Hi Dave, I think that David is the inspiration behind the dosing method for the moly...

Regarding your hose with the seeping (leaking bleed screw), I'm going from memory but I think that this hose terminates on the rear EGR cooler: its a right pig to get at it. One possibility is to cut the old hose and use a joiner to splice in the new.

regards
G
321dave   
Fri Sep 23 2016, 03:10pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Thanks G for the tip. I had a little look as well and your right. I might try and do something like your suggesting. I'll take plenty of photos. I'm hoping to fix it before i do my upcoming NCT(MOT), but i think my real issue might be the service light staying on because i have a seat belt fault or i might have a fault with an airbag? Another issue to investigate with Lexia.



321dave   
Thu Dec 15 2016, 05:44pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
Hi all,
i seem to have a split in the engine mount rubber portion near the degassing tank.
Would anyone know if these mounts are filled in the center part with air or gel? The mount also appears to be a good bit lower down, which im guessing is due to engine weight compressing the rubber continuously. The old mounts rubber also seems fairly hard compared to the Febi replacement mount.



321dave   
Fri Dec 16 2016, 02:21pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
A few new parts fitted last week as well. Just thought to post up some pictures.
No 19, was missing from the rear? Pads were stuck and wearing at a bad angle on the left rear. The rear Brakes really need a necessary brake service now! ABS rear sensors were both gone a long time ago, really now is the time to drop the fuel tank and fit a set of new ones, but i think i'll get the best quality sensors first that will hopefully last a good few years service. Has anybody removed the Magnetic ABS ring from the rear hub(s) yet? They look ok on intial inspection, but i did detect a hairline crack on one. Just a thought. Thanks.











cruiserphil   
Fri Dec 16 2016, 07:03pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
321Dave,

The rear bump stops deteriorate and can break at the spud where they fit in the subframe and then fall off. I've just bought two for the 09 car. I was checking one for security and it just fell off as I touched it. They are a consumable. Worth checking when you're doing a service. Incidentally they're an NCT fail item if they're missing! (A neighbour's C5 was missing one at NCT. I replaced both for him).

Best regards,

Phil C.
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