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C6 2.7 HDI turbo leak
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Author Post
Mike H   
Tue Aug 19 2014, 12:29am
Joined: Feb 16 2010
Member No: #53
Location: Melbourne
 The front turbo leak brought fumes into the cabin ,intermittent at first more after warmup.
And soot in the engine bay.
The rear turbo leak was audible.
cheers
gmerry   
Tue Aug 19 2014, 10:06am
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 Mike, judging by the contents of this forum, turbo leagake is not a common problem at all... in fact I think you are the unique case!

regards
G
C6Dave   
Thu Oct 23 2014, 01:03pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
 Off topic posts moved to: - Click Here -

Let's keep things 'tidy' guys.
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travlician   
Fri Aug 28 2015, 12:11am
Joined: Jan 22 2011
Member No: #350
Location: Paradera
 Just found out I've got a rear turbo problem too. Lexia gives P243 which indicates a problem with the rear turbo electrovalve (and some subsequent errors regarding airflow). Actuator test clearly give no sounds from the rear and healthy sound from the front turbo.

The questions:

- Is there a guide how to remove/replace the rear turbo? (I could not find it in downloads)

- Any idea of it's possible to replace the electrovalve without taking out the turbo?

- Part numbers (The document C6 - 2.7 HDi TURBO CHARGER parts.pdf refers the the 2.2 engine, NOT the 2.7 HDi!) Found it's OEM # 0375K3, Garrett 723341 but no separate electrovalve

Any ideas welcome!
C6Dave   
Fri Aug 28 2015, 07:48am

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
 Download replaced and new ones added that were missing


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jesus1973   
Tue Aug 11 2020, 09:14am
Joined: Oct 05 2012
Member No: #1051
Location: Estella
 Hi, after some occasional limp mode and loss of cruise control I got the polution warning and the same 243 code implying the rear turbo actuator. So my mechanic has the intention of changing or repairing the actuator, and he will try to do it without removing the whole turbo.
I've been reading in the forum about users who changed the whole Garrett turbo, and there is one who was able to fix the problem by soldering one desoldered connection. If I have fully understood the manuals included here it seems that the only procedure is by taking the whole turbo out. Is there anyone who has a simpler solution or has undergone the procedure with less steps?
Thanks a lot.
MGmike   
Tue Aug 11 2020, 12:11pm
Joined: May 21 2017
Member No: #3151
Location: South Queensferry
jesus1973 wrote ...

I've been reading in the forum about users who changed the whole Garrett turbo, and there is one who was able to fix the problem by soldering one desoldered connection. If I have fully understood the manuals included here it seems that the only procedure is by taking the whole turbo out. Is there anyone who has a simpler solution or has undergone the procedure with less steps?
Thanks a lot.

The actuator can be removed without removing the whole turbo but it's not easy!
Disconnect the exhaust flexi pipes and you can get a hand up to the actuator. The metal clips holding it to the turbo are just levered off with a screw driver but some of them are a right bug**r to get at.

Enjoy....
jesus1973   
Tue Aug 11 2020, 10:06pm
Joined: Oct 05 2012
Member No: #1051
Location: Estella
 Thank you. You are such great guys.
jesus1973   
Thu Aug 20 2020, 07:56pm
Joined: Oct 05 2012
Member No: #1051
Location: Estella
 Well, no luck, my mechanic got it out and i had it repaired. Once reinstalled today it just went tac-tac-tac and the car could hardly move. Another C6 died last week near here and they offered to trade parts before taking It. I Will try that actuator in case the fix wasnt right, anyhow if you feel there is sth we are missing, please let me know. Thank you.
jesus1973   
Mon Aug 24 2020, 12:48pm
Joined: Oct 05 2012
Member No: #1051
Location: Estella
 Update. It wasnt properly repaired. We changed It with the other car and now working fine.
Paulius   
Mon Oct 05 2020, 06:22pm
Joined: Aug 14 2014
Member No: #1821
Location: Vilnius
 I ended up replacing both electrovalves. The rear one went first, two years later - the front one gave in.
At first, it would occasionally go into limp mode when warm until it wouldn't get out of that mode at all.

I bought both of the actuators used and replaced them both without removing the turbos themselves.
You can have second hand actuator health assessed in turbo repair shops
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