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Vacuum pipe breakage and repairs
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gmerry   
Fri Nov 27 2015, 09:16am
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 Hi all, it seems well documented by E3steve and others that the small vacuum pipes above the throttle housing are prone to breakage when attempting maintenance in this area.

Well the inevitable happened to me, and towards the end of the EGR job, I managed to snap one of these small vacuum pipes - near the transition into a piece of rubber.

Recalling E3steve's note that a replacement costs around £300, I decided to have a go at repairing. A short length of 3/16" cunifer brake line makes an excellent replacement. This size plugs in with a good fit into the rubber. Cut back the rubber connector to get rid of any residual plastic pipe stub. To splice to plastic vacuum line, use heat shrink or ideally replace the entire run of plastic to the next rubber connector.

Regards
G
321dave   
Fri Nov 27 2015, 11:41am
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
gmerry wrote ...

Hi all, it seems well documented by E3steve and others that the small vacuum pipes above the throttle housing are prone to breakage when attempting maintenance in this area.

Well the inevitable happened to me, and towards the end of the EGR job, I managed to snap one of these small vacuum pipes - near the transition into a piece of rubber.

Recalling E3steve's note that a replacement costs around £300, I decided to have a go at repairing. A short length of 3/16" cunifer brake line makes an excellent replacement. This size plugs in with a good fit into the rubber. Cut back the rubber connector to get rid of any residual plastic pipe stub. To splice to plastic vacuum line, use heat shrink or ideally replace the entire run of plastic to the next rubber connector.

Regards
G


That sounds a very good/clever fix G, unfortunately for me I went ahead and purchased a new setup for €150 from my local Citroen dealer. Which in hindsight is mad really for a few bits of pipe. But I suppose I could try returning it, as I'm stalled waiting for the replacement radiator to arrive before moving on the timing belt. But I don't mind as I enjoy working on the car! Bar the basic maintenance (timing belt) the car has only one Lexia fault showing. Preheat for glow plugs. But car drives fine.
e3steve   
Sat Nov 28 2015, 10:46am
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
gmerry wrote ...

Recalling E3steve's note that a replacement costs around £300, I decided to have a go at repairing. A short length of 3/16" cunifer brake line makes an excellent replacement. This size plugs in with a good fit into the rubber. Cut back the rubber connector to get rid of any residual plastic pipe stub. To splice to plastic vacuum line, use heat shrink or ideally replace the entire run of plastic to the next rubber connector.
Was that me? I don't really remember a price for the swirl-valves' plumbing. Perhaps I did post that and factored it into what I'd already spent on goodies to do the output tank and the injectors' fuel scavenge pipework that I broke whilst doing the job.

Anyway, wha'evah....

Great idea, G; I'll do a little research into doing as you suggest. Nice one!
joopajaa   
Thu Nov 16 2017, 10:37am
Joined: Sep 06 2017
Member No: #3261
Location: Byroslavia, FIN
 Any link or info on "top 3 vacuum tests one should do to 2.7 HDI" or something like that?

I mean is there easy steps mechanically to test with vacuum handpump?
Backinblack   
Sun Dec 16 2018, 12:08pm
Joined: Oct 12 2017
Member No: #3296
Location: Tynaarlo
 The better bicycle shop will have Magura hydraulic brake tubing (for the H33 brakes not the disc), it is an exact fit and looks, or might even be, identical plastic tubing.
 

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