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2.7hdi air con not working and heater only blowing luke warm air |
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cruiserphil
 
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    Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
Simon, I only got going on the radiator change today and haven't finished yet. Taking my time so I don't break anything!! Dave, the sensor you have highlighted in blue is the humidity sensor that sits behind the small grille in the dash. Best regards, Phil C. |
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gmerry
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 Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi all, Visteon also supplied the dual zone heater (HVAC) system for the Peugeot 407. They built a co-located manufacturing plant in Rennes to supply the 407 and probably C6 assembly line. Visteon Corporation has started to deliver the complete heating and ventilation system (HVAC), the electronic control module for the climate unit, air conditioning hoses and door panel and trim assemblies for the new Peugeot 407. In a statement, the company said the manufacture and supply of components and systems to PSA Peugeot Citroën reflects the integration processes developed to bring together the work of development centers and manufacturing units across Europe. For the 407, this includes development of the dual zone HVAC system at the new laboratories at Kerpen (Germany) with production at Visteon plants in France. The electronic control module is being produced at the Cadiz plant in Spain. Air conditioning hoses are produced in the Czech Republic and the door panel and trim assemblies at Rennes in France. The finished assemblies are then supplied to the PSA Peugeot Citroën receiving area On the PeugeotCentral forum, there is a mega post with details on various repairs for the hot/cold mixer flap for the Peugeot units. I'm guessing the C6 will have a similar if not identical unit. Regards G PS, E3Steve, did you ever get round to repairing your heater? PPS, look at a website called peugeot dash 407 dash heater dash fix dot weebly dot com for some sound advise -passenger side is detailed. ppps, here's an ebay listing for Peugeot 407/Citroen C5 replacement heater flaps what the bet they will fit the C6 too - Click Here - PPPPS here's a Citroen C5 with the same problem/symptoms and with the poster describing how Lexia will diagnose everything fine when in actual fact the flap shaft is broken. - Click Here - |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi all, there's a guy called Paul Mooney, based in Northerm Ireland, that periodically travels to the UK and performs "openheart" surgery on heater boxes, to insert new strengthened heater flaps. It takes a couple of hours for an expert to make the repair. This method does not require dashboard removal, nor heaterbox removal, nor regassing of the aircon. Regards G his contact telephone number from the Peugeot forum Paul Mooney - 07799625481 |
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e3steve
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 Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
Hi G, thanks for that interesting info and also for the heads-up on Paul Mooney. I'll be amazed, but delighted, if he can repair mine! No, I've not got around to doing the deed yet. A full dash & crashpad rip-out is a bit daunting; I'm waiting for warmer weather... All the stepper motors that I've spotted and/or removed from my C6 are Visteon. I seem to recall seeing Bosch mentioned as the other supplier, perhaps somewhere on the forum download docs. |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Steve, when you removed the actuator (stepper motor), did you find the stub shaft of the mixer flap at all, pushed deep into the heater box like the C5 posted link, or entirely missing. I don't suppose you have access to a borescope to look inside (or can you get the Mark I eyeball up close enough to see anything. Regarding the Paul Mooney type repair, I must admit I would be pretty keen to avoid dash removal if it was my heater problem. Best regards G PS, anyone have any idea on how to find out the RP when Visteon redesigned the heater flaps, or is this just a PSA aftermarket fix. |
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ststech
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   Member No: #1845
Location: CREWKERNE somerset |
the c5 and 407 heater flaps are the same but citroen state if bearing that flap shaft sit in are damaged its heater box replacement the through keyhole surgery i have done it on a phase 2 c5 before and will do same on my c6 should need arrise confusing as it may seem my car according to vin has visteon system yet reduction motor i took out was behr i have attached images of the 2 heater boxes which show rpo etc ps found fault with my c6 when coolant tank failed some prat put k seal in coolant and my matrix is blocked  so going to treat it with citric acid like what is used in dishwashers then back flush it found this info on mercedes 190 forum and they all say it works a treat hope so as dont want to take dash out unless there is a way of getting matrix out without removing faciai ruled it out before but on further investigation have found i was feeling wrong pipes only one is hot the other is cold the one on left with bleed screw which corrosponds to the feed or return from that side being cooler when it does work car in citroen having timing belt done at the moment but i will set about unblocking matrix when it comes back so will update when done   |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Simon, thanks for update. It sounds as though you are really suffering from the actions of a prior owner or unscrupulous seller. The Behr motor may be a bodge if the previous did not investigate or repair properly. Your RP number should be fairly definitive as to whether you have Visteon or not. (Note there are 5 stepper motors, check them all). The heater matrix is aluminium. You need to find out whether it is crimped/elastomer sealed or brazed before starting your chemical experiments. A 2nd hand matrix (or even a new OEM spare) on the bench is a better place to experiment rather than on the car. Note, I find it is better to rely on instruments for temperature logging rather than by hand. To this end, the heater matrix supply/return pipes are accessible under the dashboard - clamp on some central heating type pipe thermocouples here to get a true reading while you are driving. Best of luck G |
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ststech
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Member No: #1845
Location: CREWKERNE somerset |
i am going to try and reverse flush it first as the pressure from hose pipe is higher than the cooling system and may force any crud out i have looked replacing the matrix but the instructions show the pipes have to be cut then joined with it says parts available from spares dept im wondering if i could just cut the pipes under dash and then rejoin them with rubber hose and clamps would this be a good idea also with pipes cut will the matrix come out without removing facia i dont mind if i have to cut part of facia behind trim then plastic weld it back after then put trim back what are your views on this method going to price up heater matrix later or tomorrow when car comes back from having timing belt replaced  |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Reverse flushing with water/hosepipe sounds like a very good idea. Try this and a hot flush with water too (just through the heater matrix). Then make sure there are no blockages in the heater hose/plumbing anywhere else. Regards G |
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ststech
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Member No: #1845
Location: CREWKERNE somerset |
well not the weather for it really but 6 this morning put 500grams of citric aciddish washer descaler mixed with boiling water in run it for a while up to temp still cold so left it went back out at 2pm took heater matrix hoses off forward and reverse flushed them and there feed pipes from block (while cold) refilled and bled cooling system and within a few minutes heater started to get hot both sides after about 10 to 15 mins it was unbearably hot heater working as it should now when on high you cant stay in the car its so hot how it should be found this procedure here - Click Here - Mercedes even recommend the use of citric acid well they said in that forum that it worked and by christ it does if done correctly i have a heater back  just got an abs sensor to replace now and couple of other small jobs |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Ststech, that's a good outcome, especially in this freezing cold weather. Glad you used citric acid rather than caustic soda as mentioned in the linked forum: the aluminium heater matrix and radiator may have quickly developed pinhole leaks if you had flushed the cooling system with caustic. Regards G |
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ststech
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Member No: #1845
Location: CREWKERNE somerset |
gmerry wrote ... Ststech, that's a good outcome, especially in this freezing cold weather. Glad you used citric acid rather than caustic soda as mentioned in the linked forum: the aluminium heater matrix and radiator may have quickly developed pinhole leaks if you had flushed the cooling system with caustic. i read the merc forum post very thoroughly and didnt fancy taking my chances with caustic soda! citric acid is basically as says on merc forum used in dishwasher descaler tabs ie W5 tabs etc thought i would give it a go as new matrix is £282 inc vat trade and involves facia removal although i would have tried a work around if possible but now im happy i have a red hot heater back on another note i tried 2 kinds of coolant flush inc holts made no difference so if you want to flush your coolant system citric acid should be safe enough just flush and reverse flush several times then refill with antifreeze and distilled water if possible here is the link to the product i bought on ebay - Click Here - just remember to steer clear of rad or coolant sealants as over time they will clog up your cooling system and the place that gets clogged more likely is the heater matrix as it lays vertical and flat and all the crud ends up in it Finally it must be safe to use as why would Mercedes recommend using it and its under £6 for 1kg on ebay and I only used half of it |
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ul9601
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 Member No: #1975
Location: Auckland |
Hi, I had a quick scan thru the thread but don't think the massive difference between blown air temperature for drivers side and passenger side was explained. I have the similar discrepancy (according to dealer diagbox session, but too cold air coming out of the face level vents) drivers 11.4 & passengers -28. Resetting the temperature was being talked about - is this done on diagbox or can it be done manually on the a/c control? Also, if this is due to faulty air temperature sensor(s), where are they located and what are the part numbers? I got a FRIP problem so I'm buying a bunch of parts to sort out the issues I've put off taking care of. Cheers |
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