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Next Time Your C6 is Serviced Check the Coolant Pipe

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Author Post
gmerry   
Sun Oct 26 2014, 08:12am
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Hi all, I had a query regarding the hose size that fit over the heater steel pipe: just to confirm that I found 3/4" heavy duty heater pipe ideal (that's actually a metric 20mm hose ID).

Regards
G
scrappydoo   
Thu Nov 13 2014, 05:47pm
Joined: May 24 2014
Member No: #1724
Location: West Midlands
Mine is as rusty as hell so will be looking at replacing it. Can I change it without modifying the part? Also the coolant in it is currently yellow but I take it, it should be green?
C6Dave   
Fri Nov 14 2014, 08:58am

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
If it's Yellow it sounds like it's been changed for Propylene Glycol Long Life, Non Toxic - more info - Click Here -

I use it in the TA
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gmerry   
Fri Nov 14 2014, 10:07am
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Hi, direct replacement of the rusty part with a new OEM pipe is very difficult, may not even be possible at all. The pipe was probably installed before the engine/gearbox.

So you will be forced to apply some kind of modification: Phil probably has the best write-up on this.

Regarding the coolant, do you have any history with the car? Colour is an unreliable indicator of the chemistry. Avoid incompatible corrosion inhibitor chemistries. Best to drain and flush and start again with your chosen brew.

Regards
G
C6Dave   
Fri Nov 14 2014, 06:00pm

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
gmerry wrote ...

Hi, direct replacement of the rusty part with a new OEM pipe is very difficult, may not even be possible at all. The pipe was probably installed before the engine/gearbox.


I was told that the sub frame needs to be dropped G, so a big job if correct
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scrappydoo   
Fri Nov 14 2014, 08:40pm
Joined: May 24 2014
Member No: #1724
Location: West Midlands
It's got a full specialist history hence I was enquiring what coolant is applicable as the specialist appears to use original parts/fluid.

Just read Phil's write up and it is excellent so I'll be following that.
scrappydoo   
Sun Nov 23 2014, 06:43pm
Joined: May 24 2014
Member No: #1724
Location: West Midlands
Have managed to do the pipe and have managed to fit it without modifying it. It's a very tight fit and took some time and patience but did manage it and without dropping the subframe!

The only issue I have before refitting everything is that I've been unable to find the engine coolant drain plug (important as I'm changing the coolant from long life to the genuine blue/green citroen). Have checked the diagram for it of the downloads section but it doesn't gibe much of a clue still....does anyone have any pointers?

Another thing I've found is a coolant leak from the front coolant pipes as you look at the engine (under the front EGR valve). Does anyone know how big a job these removal of this water pipe unit will be? Again checked the downloads but cannot see anything specific to it.

Thanks in advance.
321dave   
Sun Nov 23 2014, 10:33pm
Joined: Sep 09 2011
Member No: #614
Location: Dublin
scrappydoo wrote ...

Have managed to do the pipe and have managed to fit it without modifying it. It's a very tight fit and took some time and patience but did manage it and without dropping the subframe!

The only issue I have before refitting everything is that I've been unable to find the engine coolant drain plug (important as I'm changing the coolant from long life to the genuine blue/green citroen). Have checked the diagram for it of the downloads section but it doesn't gibe much of a clue still....does anyone have any pointers?

Another thing I've found is a coolant leak from the front coolant pipes as you look at the engine (under the front EGR valve). Does anyone know how big a job these removal of this water pipe unit will be? Again checked the downloads but cannot see anything specific to it.

Thanks in advance.


Hi Scrappdoo,
that's great, well done. Did you get any photos of the installation? How did you approach the pipe replacement? Any tips for others on the forum regarding getting the full pipe back in position? Did you dismantle the hose pipes from the metal pipe section and reassemble again when you were underneath? I'm just wondering how you managed it? Maybe we all gave up to soon.

Kind regards
321dave
speedfix   
Sun Nov 23 2014, 10:59pm
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
What antifreeze is the compatible type for the c6, is it IAT, oat, hoat etc ?

Mixing IMO is not an option.

IMO the incorrect type does cause failings with vehicles.
scrappydoo   
Mon Nov 24 2014, 12:31pm
Joined: May 24 2014
Member No: #1724
Location: West Midlands
Managed to fit it complete with all rubber hoses still attached and the key is to have the front end jacked as high as you can so you can place the pipe upto the vehicle at an obtuse angle. I made the mistake of initially fitting it and then having to unbolt the wiring loom that bolts around the gearbox and had to then get the pipework around that!

Sadly never took any pictures as before I started I had full plans to complete the modification prior to fitting but then once I looked at the part that I'd just paid over £60 for it was paining me to take a saw to it!

Does anyone know how to get to the front coolant pipes under the front EGR valve as that's where I've found a coolant leak? Also whereabouts is the engine coolant drain location?

e3steve   
Tue Nov 25 2014, 09:26am
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
scrappydoo wrote ...

Managed to fit it complete with all rubber hoses still attached and the key is to have the front end jacked as high as you can so you can place the pipe upto the vehicle at an obtuse angle. I made the mistake of initially fitting it and then having to unbolt the wiring loom that bolts around the gearbox and had to then get the pipework around that!

Sadly never took any pictures as before I started I had full plans to complete the modification prior to fitting but then once I looked at the part that I'd just paid over £60 for it was paining me to take a saw to it!

Does anyone know how to get to the front coolant pipes under the front EGR valve as that's where I've found a coolant leak? Also whereabouts is the engine coolant drain location?


Genius! I've not had to do mine, as it looks fine (it appears to be zinc-plated rather than painted). This must be the first post whereby the entire assembly gets successfully replaced!

I have a similar coolant leak, but from the rear bank. I'm dreading that one... I believe that the engine coolant drain plug is somewhere on the rear bank?

gmerry   
Tue Nov 25 2014, 10:41am
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
Given "difficult" access (Citroen helpfully has a graphic with other components removed), probably better to flush rather than drain. Flush would be with tap water if you live in a soft water area.

Then drain radiator and coolant tank and replace with known quantity of fresh inhibitor to arrive at correct coolant concentration.

Regards
G
C6Dave   
Tue Nov 25 2014, 10:48am

Joined: Oct 01 2009
Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland
As G says, probably easier to drain the rad with the bottom hose off, Fill with clean water and run up to temperature to open the thermostat and allow to circulate, then drain again.

If still not clean, repeat the flush, before refilling with correct coolant mixture.
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scrappydoo   
Tue Nov 25 2014, 01:01pm
Joined: May 24 2014
Member No: #1724
Location: West Midlands
OK, will give up trying to find the engine coolant drain and concentrate on finding out what I need to dismantle to get to those front coolant pipes that are leaking.
e3steve   
Tue Nov 25 2014, 01:38pm
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
C6Dave wrote ...

As G says, probably easier to drain the rad with the bottom hose off, Fill with clean water and run up to temperature to open the thermostat and allow to circulate, then drain again.

If still not clean, repeat the flush, before refilling with correct coolant mixture.
That's what I did. Draining the block looked like a bit of a faff!

I used Comma 'Xstream' G30 (BASF 'Glysantin').

I still have this smell of hot coolant when I stop and get out, but no sign of anything dripping out. I top up once a month and it takes about half a litre each time. I can see witness marks of coolant spatter somewhere beneath the rear bank EGR location...

I'm doing some other stuff next month (including a new starter motor) so I'll take a more serious look then, once she's undergoing other surgery.
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