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Next Time Your C6 is Serviced Check the Coolant Pipe
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Author Post
gmerry   
Fri Jul 02 2010, 08:18pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 For those owners with slightly older C6s, or those that run on salted roads, check the coolant pipe that runs to/from the interior heater.

Dirt is thrown up by the wheels directly at the pipe. This one is less than 2 years old. All the paint is gone, some serious corrosion. What you expect on an 8 year old car.

If you start loosing coolant, check out this pipe!
michaelb   
Sat Jul 03 2010, 06:30am
Joined: Nov 17 2009
Member No: #14
Location: London
 So in our small little C6 community, 166 members of whom probably fewer than 100 are participating owners, we've already had one hydraulic pipe failure, one air-conditioning pipe failure and now this suspect looking coolant pipe.

For the company which pioneered hydraulics in cars they're not very good at pipes.
gmerry   
Wed Jul 07 2010, 09:39pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 More pictures. Middle of pipe is problem area in direct line of fire for any grit thrown up by the front wheel.

Reminds me of the problems Evos had with petrol dripping from the filler pipe. Also paint not up to job pof protecting the pipe from road debris directed from the wheels.

Regards
cruiserphil   
Tue Jun 28 2011, 07:26am

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 Thank you G.

I was about to post this but did a search first and found your informative warning. Was doing an inspection yesterday for ball joints on the 2006 car prior to going for NCT (Irish MOT)and spotted the pipe. The corrosion is extremely bad - no leaks yet but have a replacement pipe ordered. Also found the lower RH balljoint needs replacing. That's one on each car so far with approx. 55000 miles on each.

Regards,

Phil C.
gmerry   
Tue Jun 28 2011, 10:35am
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 Phil, if you use your car in the winter on gritted roads, I would only expect the new replacement pipe paintjob to last about one year (mine was just 18months old when those photos were taken). The pipe is just inside the wheel arch and likely gets directly blasted by the wheels. A heavy duty paint job such as a powder coating should give a much longer life.

Regards
G

PS, virtually impossible to get the pipe back in place in one piece. I cut mine in two and then recreated the raised lip which stops the joining hose getting blown off.
cruiserphil   
Tue Jun 28 2011, 10:55am

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 Thanks G.

Will let you know how I get on. Would it make sense to cut the pipe and place a rubber hose joiner across the whole wheel arch exposed area??

Regards,

Phil C.
gmerry   
Tue Jun 28 2011, 09:41pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 Yes, good idea but make sure pipe ends have some restraint. I recall reading that later cars have a rubber pipe for the entire section!. Can anyone confirm this?

Really important to have the beading on the ends of the pipe otherwise the hose will blow off (regardless of the hose clamp)

Cheers
G

Tip, tie a bit of string on the quick release hose clamp wire clips to stop them pinging off and getting lost. These are the one up on the bulkead behind /besides the booster.
pclark   
Wed Jun 29 2011, 07:46am
Joined: Oct 08 2009
Member No: #3
Location: North Yorkshire
 i believe this is correct. When I had the auxilliary parking heater fitted in the LH front valance area (behind the wheelarch liner where the Citroen auxilliary heater available in some non UK markets is fitted) the installers found it handy to tap into the coolant circuit.
nickyg   
Mon Jun 11 2012, 10:58pm
Joined: Apr 28 2010
Member No: #100
Location: Tyrone
 Is this pipe part 6466 HA?

Cheers, Nick
gmerry   
Tue Jun 12 2012, 08:29am
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 Nicky, the steel coolant pipe is located near side (passenger side for RHD) tucked between the inner mudguard and the end of the transmission. If you remove the inner plastic liner it will be easier to spot and assess whether this is what is causing the coolant leak. You probably want to get directly below the pipe with a powerful torch, engine running and up to temperature (pressure).

It might also be worth using a radiator testor on the coolant tank to find the leak(s).

On the OAT specification, Citroen use a silicate free specification (from my memory banks), so definitely worth sticking with Citroen branded coolant. Its not very expensive.

G
nickyg   
Tue Jun 12 2012, 12:32pm
Joined: Apr 28 2010
Member No: #100
Location: Tyrone
 Thanks, gmerry!

Yes, given your explanation I think this is part 6466 HA. I will have a look out for it when I can get on a lift to do a more thorough inspection for the source of the leak.

I am sure it will not be this particular item this time though, as it is clearly originating predominantly towards the osf area.

I have dynax ub from bilt hamber, so may have a clean up and treat any problem areas with it when I'm in there.

With regards coolant, I would say you are right, a slightly differing OAT, perhaps due to certain alloys in the citroen coolant systems. Of course, this should not be confused with the old style blue coolant!

I will have eradicated all traces of coolant from the system with distilled water by the time I get to the bottom of this, so may be an opportune time to go back to citroens blue version of Glysantin g33.

Thanks again
cruiserphil   
Wed Jun 13 2012, 10:38am

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 Nicky G,

I should have confirmed sooner. I have the part to fit to the 06 car and the part no. is 6466 HA.

Regards,

Phil C.
Pappnase   
Thu Jan 17 2013, 12:25pm
Joined: Sep 30 2012
Member No: #1044
Location: Bonn
 One of the German C6 owners just sawed off the bad part and replaced it by a rubber hose. He said it was much easier to fit and will probably last longer than the rest of the car. This is what I am planning to do when/if mine fails. I wouldn't use anything from the garden but there are special hoses for coolant available cheaply. 10€ together with two suitable clamps which is MUCH cheaper than the original part.
gmerry   
Thu Jan 17 2013, 01:07pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 I pretty much concur that a rubber hose piece will be required due to very poor access to replace the coolant pipe in one piece.

Please however do not rely on a clamp to hold a rubber hose on to a piece of plain diameter pipe. The pressure will blow the hose off. The pipe should be properly beaded to secure the hose to the pipe.

Regards
G
Pappnase   
Thu Jan 17 2013, 07:24pm
Joined: Sep 30 2012
Member No: #1044
Location: Bonn
 Yes you are right. Thanks for the warning. But only if the ordinary wormgear type is used. These are not suited. The company where I work make sensors for the railway industry. We use these coolant hoses as cable protection. There are heavy duty clamps available which have a pull-off force of more than 100 kilos from plain tubes. That should do.

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