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starting problems again
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speedfix   
Mon Oct 13 2014, 06:46am
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
 IMO if you have a fully charged battery and a cranking speed like the above video then the starter is the problem.
Note after a short period the starter speed drops to almost a speed that will in effect be not enough to start the engine on a frosty morning.

I would also have reservations about the car being left for days without being started that the injector if leaking will cause hydraulicing of the cylinder involved causing other probs.
ststech   
Mon Oct 13 2014, 08:51am
Joined: Aug 31 2014
Member No: #1845
Location: CREWKERNE somerset
 this was this mornings attempt to start please bear in mind sometimes i have to crank 4 or 5 times and sometimes the cranking speed is a quarter of this
and now i remember it when its warm it cranks at the same speed as this video


- Click Here -
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e3steve   
Mon Oct 13 2014, 01:35pm
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
 I'm glad mine isn't the only 2.7 with noisy hydraulic tappets until the oil pressure is up!
cruiserphil   
Mon Oct 13 2014, 03:12pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 Simon,
Your starter sounds a little laboured!
Regards,
Phil C.
ststech   
Mon Oct 13 2014, 05:04pm
Joined: Aug 31 2014
Member No: #1845
Location: CREWKERNE somerset
 going to change starter tomorrow but i have been out and tried to undo the fuel filter housing undone all bolts i could see on top and side but it will not budge

has anyone any idea how to remove the housing

regards Simon
Website
e3steve   
Tue Oct 14 2014, 08:51am
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
 TIP:

When working under the bonnet, and from the sides, access is greatly improved by raising the bonnet to its maximum excursion. Phone-a-friend to assist in supporting the bonnet (although I'm now accomplished at this operation and do it by myself).

1. Remove one of the gas struts' bottom joint from its ball in the inner wing -- slip a terminal screwdriver into the recess under the spring clip (don't remove the clip; just ease it away from its seat and pull the ram off) -- then compress the ram a little and prop it behind the ball.

2. Repeat for the other side. If your struts are OK then they'll continue to support the bonnet's weight whilst the operation is carried out, but don't let the weight remain on one strut only, at the 'normal' raised angle, as it will drop.

3. Whilst removing the second side from the ball-joint, compress the ram as far as possible, raising the bonnet until it stops, then slowly release the ram until the ball socket nestles into the rubber cover in the inner wing's drain channel (in line with the suspension top) and aft of the 13mm nut that you'll see peeping from behind that rubber cover.

At this point, one ram will support the bonnet's weight at this high angle.

4. Repeat '3' for the other side's ram.

Lowering to normal position is more or less a reverse procedure: compress one ram enough to lift it free of the resting place behind the 13mm nut, allow the ram to extend and leave it resting in the drain channel, then move to the other side whilst supporting the bonnet and do the same there, resting the ram's ball socket behind the ball on that side, support the bonnet's weight again whilst moving back to the other side and snap that ram back on its ball. Repeat.
cruiserphil   
Tue Oct 14 2014, 07:14pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 Simon,
Did you remove the mounting bolt hiding down on bottom right as you look at the housing from the left hand side of the car? It is very awkward to remove.
Regards,
Phil C.
ststech   
Wed Oct 15 2014, 01:03pm
Joined: Aug 31 2014
Member No: #1845
Location: CREWKERNE somerset
 YES FOUND THEM ALL AND THAT ONE WAS A BAS***D TO REMOVE REPLACE

other issue i came accross was i could not remove the gear selector cable support the ball joint came off easy but could not remove the cable from its support housing even following instructions !!
i found it easier to remove the 2 nuts that hold cable bracket and then the 3 studs holding the cable support plate was real easy just fed it back under the wiring loom and tucked under bulkhead while i removed the starter

but car started first flick of the key no injector errors etc i can only assume the very slow cranking speed gave low fuel rail pressure as it starts as a car should now first flick of the key
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speedfix   
Wed Oct 15 2014, 06:07pm
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
"but car started first flick of the key no injector errors etc"


Great news, and now another C6 to see wafting around the west country.
e3steve   
Wed Oct 15 2014, 09:17pm
Joined: Jan 21 2013
Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain
 Cool bananas!
cruiserphil   
Thu Oct 16 2014, 10:14am

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 Thanks for the posts. Great news,

Regards,

Phil C.
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