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Corrosion on oil sump pan, crossmembers, pipes etc. |
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gregsNG56OOF
 
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  Member No: #1832
Location: Southampton |
During first change of gearbox oil due to jerky gear changes (@47000 miles)I noticed two areas of significant corrosion on the oil sump pan. The loose oxidation was cleaned off carefully and the affected areas coated with a brushable ceramic metal repair epoxy by Devcon. I do not know how thick this oil pan pressing is, but the depth of corrosion seems substantial - hence my reluctance to remove corroded areas back to metal. Needless to say, I am looking for a new sump pan any ideas on procurement? Thanks to all the guys for your advice and guidance on gearbox oil changes. Check the condition of your sump pans asap! |
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gmerry
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   Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Gregs, as Citroen do not list the sump as a spare, you may need to be creative... I guess this is why you have posted this query. I guessing that a vehicle dismantler would be reluctant to split a sump from a vehicle transmission. Hence may be best to speak to a dedicated transmission specialist eg - Click Here - Suffolk Auto Transmissions Regards G Otherwise, remove and repair the existing pan (any good welder should be able to cut out and patch the affected metal). Just get it properly cleaned before replacing the same. |
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gregsNG56OOF
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Member No: #1832
Location: Southampton |
Thanks for your expedient reply Sir, I have coated the outside surface of the oil sump pan in brushable ceramic epoxy hopefully by excluding oxygen from the affected areas no more corrosion can take hold. The epoxy has a temperature limit of 122 deg C so could be a good repair for the corroded cooling water pipes our cars suffer from (provided access for completely covering the affected area in epoxy is possible) Best Regards, Greg |
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DiscoBison
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 Member No: #989
Location: Portsmouth |
Not sure if Greg was referring to transmission or engine oil sump. Either way my engine oil sump has now corroded through and is weeping oil. I've been aware that mine was corroded for a while, but checked it again the other day to see it has got much worse with the outer surface now covered in a film of oil. Needless to say I'm not using the car now until I fix it. So I can second the check your oil sump advice! For reference my C6 is on a 56 plate and done 112000 miles. My undertray is missing so that may have contributed. I've ordered a new sump and gasket direct from Citroen, £151 inc VAT. Nowhere else seemed to sell them. That's my job for the weekend! |
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Hi Disco, I will be replacing the corroded coolant pipe (that famous pipe) on Saturday evening myself, good luck with replacing the sump, needless to say I'll be checking the sump as soon as the under engine cover is removed on Saturday. Thanks for the tip to check it, god only know what else is rusting on these great cars. If you don't mind me asking, what year and mileage is your C6? Do you also have rust on the top edge of your front door? where the chrome meets the glass? Kind regards 321dave |
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Apologies, I hadn't read all the post before replying. Mine is 07, with 109,000 or so miles!! With undertray on. I'll take some photos for comparison on Saturday, and post them back here. Good luck with the repair. Kind regards 321dave |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi DiscoBison, I'm sure the original post referred to the sheet metal cover on the bottom of the transmission. Regarding your engine oil sump, hope you don't mind if I ask you where/who has serviced the car for say the last 3 years. Corrosion on say a sump does not occur overnight: during oil changes somebody must have noticed something, was anything ever noted? Regards G |
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speedfix
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 Member No: #1043
Location: south west |
"My undertray is missing so that may have contributed." Sure will with the heavy use of road salt in winter, conditions of roads pot holes filled with abrasive stones and salt water soon sets up heavy corrosion on the sump and other parts [heater steel pipe] on 2.7 & 3.0 hdi some pix enclosed of cleaned painted pipe before application of spray grease when paint has hardened. Always renew the complete fixings for the under tray every two years as they also corrode causing the under tray to collapse and break up.    |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Speedfix, your "pipe" looks to be in very good condition. Mine was very pitted after only 1 year of Scottish winter saut. The suggestion to replace the fasteners for the undertray is extremely sensible. I grease mine up every 6 months (when it gets serviced) and even then I have had to replace most of them. Regards G |
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Image of sump is upside down. But the corrosion is clearly visible. What would the best course of action be here? It's not weeping oil yet? The sump was also covered from below, so not sure why its so bad.  [link |
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi 321dave, I've had several classics plus poorly protected Japanese cars - both varieties have suffered from this type of corrosion. In my opinion, the only way to affect a permanent repair is to remove the sump, grit blast the metal and then apply a proper paint system. A paint system that would last would be 1/ zinc rich primer 2/ high build miceous iron oxide (MIO) intermediate layer 3/ polyurethane gloss coat. Jotun could spec a paint system for you taking into account the operating temperatures. However, this will be a fantastically expensive job unless you do it yourself and have left over materials from another project. An interim solution is to keep the sump saturated in oil (I service my car every 6 months so this is possible). Realistic best solution is to buy a new sump from your Citroen dealer. Regards G |
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Tjensen
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 Member No: #954
Location: Bergen |
Maybe a too rough chemical washing or sand blasting before getting rustsprayed ? | ||
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321dave
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Member No: #614
Location: Dublin |
Hi G, thank you for that advice. I think the fastest option is to clean a little of the crusty bits away and cover in oil for the moment and then replace like for like with a new sump and gasket. I did notice the undertray was a bit damp/wet!! And sits right up against the sump in the places it's the most corroded. Just wondering is the sump tray the correctly fitted original? I'll have to investigate a bit further and post an image of the undertray. Kind regards 321dave |
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C6Dave
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  Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
There are diagrams on site showing the undertray. | ||
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gmerry
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Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Something may well be wrong!. there should be a little clearance allowing for the sump to dry, i.e not be constantly wet. regards G |
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