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Structural Jacking Points
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gmerry   
Tue Jun 03 2014, 02:08pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 Hi all, I have a new very low jack which can slide under the car and is good for 2.5 Tonnes, wide base and true vertical lift. Are there hard points in the floorpan which can take the load of the front of the car. I'm trying not to use the sill lifting lugs.

Regards
G
travlician   
Tue Jun 03 2014, 02:16pm
Joined: Jan 22 2011
Member No: #350
Location: Paradera
 Officially the answer is no. What I do is use a wooden block with a carving to accommodate the lug and use that between the lug and the jack. Works great, even without jack it's handy as you can use a cement block with the wooden block on top to place under the car when in high position and then lower to remove a wheel.
gmerry   
Tue Jun 03 2014, 03:50pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 Hi Travlican, thanks for the answer.

I have a lifting beam with two machined lugs that fit the sill jacking points perfectly.

The lifting beam is lifted by two jacks outboard of the car so the whole thing is very stable and solid. Once up to height, sleeper offcuts go under the lifting beam in line with the lugs.

But my MOT station jacks on the underneath of the car, so there must be something solids on the underside of the car?

Regards
G
cruiserphil   
Tue Jun 17 2014, 03:09pm

Joined: Jan 24 2010
Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge
 Hello G,

The official instructions allow you to jack under the sill beneath the centre door post. I have done this many times with no problem. Certainly jacking off the subframe is declared a no no.

EDIT

Forgot to say that when jacking this way there is no distortion as though it looks odd I checked the doors opening and closing and there spot on.

Regards,

Phil C.
speedfix   
Wed Aug 27 2014, 06:37pm
Joined: Sep 28 2012
Member No: #1043
Location: south west
 For the MOT with the use of the jacking beam the positions are where the cut out squares are positioned on the cars under tray.
gmerry   
Wed Aug 27 2014, 08:45pm
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 Hi Speedfix, just what I needed to know.

thanks

G
ul9601   
Tue May 16 2017, 12:37am
Joined: Dec 14 2014
Member No: #1975
Location: Auckland
speedfix wrote ...

For the MOT with the use of the jacking beam the positions are where the cut out squares are positioned on the cars under tray.



Massive thread resurrection but is this for both front and rear? (Not sure which one this one shows - I'm ashamed to say this but I've never been under my C6, although I have a very steep driveway and the C6 hasn't seen inside the garage due to a project car sitting in there so I do have an excuse...).
This is for sphere replacement and I'm trying to do in the garage, one end at a time.
Cheers
Sam
gmerry   
Tue May 16 2017, 11:44am
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 Hi Sam, personally I'd do the front and rear sphere changes as separate jobs (unless Of course I had access to a 2 post lift). The front right wheel and inner mudguard liner needs to be removed for the stiffness sphere. Speedfix's photo shows the front of the car being lifted by the MOT style jacking block. My garage does the same for the rear.

What kind of jacks are You using?


For the rears, you need to get right under the car to do the centres so the car needs to be high and very secure - SAFETY FIRST!
ul9601   
Tue May 16 2017, 07:05pm
Joined: Dec 14 2014
Member No: #1975
Location: Auckland
gmerry wrote ...

Hi Sam, personally I'd do the front and rear sphere changes as separate jobs (unless Of course I had access to a 2 post lift). The front right wheel and inner mudguard liner needs to be removed for the stiffness sphere. Speedfix's photo shows the front of the car being lifted by the MOT style jacking block. My garage does the same for the rear.

What kind of jacks are You using?


For the rears, you need to get right under the car to do the centres so the car needs to be high and very secure - SAFETY FIRST!

I have a couple of trolley jacks (of different size) but I read your warning about not to use them? I'm willing to invest in bottle jacks.
I was thinking of jacking at the sill locations and support with jack stands at the points as shown in the above post.
How high should the rears need to be for sphere replacement, is it beyond the capability of typical bottle jacks?
gmerry   
Wed May 17 2017, 07:08am
Joined: Dec 11 2009
Member No: #21
Location: Scotland
 Hi Sam, for the front, I would drive the front of the car on to some planks (about 25mm thick), put the suspension on maximum high and then jack up under the sill jacking points using say 10 tonne bottle jacks (something like these SGS units - Click Here - ). Modify the tops of the bottle jacks by grinding a deep groove that will fit the sill point - this will anchor the bottle jack to the sill jacking point and minimise the lateral forces - and stop any chance of it slipping out. The 10 tonne rating give you a very stiff, stable ram with adequate resistance to sideways collapse. Ideally jack up the front with one person each side, a little at a time and keep it level side to side. I say use a 25mm thick plank because the minimum height of my 10 tonne jacks was just a tad too much to fit under the car even when on max high position. By jacking both sides at the same time, there is no lateral loading on the jacking points.

The rear is much, much easier to jack because probably only half the weight of the front. You will need it high enough to comfortably get access to those middle spheres.

Note, placing the props under the solid points (cutouts through the undertray) exposes you to the risks of getting under a car held up by a jack. Make sure you think it through. Personally, that why I use a jacking beam across/under the car, so that I never need to get under a car only held up on a jack
 

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