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Car shaking when cold starting |
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smihaialex
 
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  Member No: #1031
Location: Bucharest |
Hey guys, Jax (my Six), shakes for a minute after starting in cold weather. It used to be lighter shaking, but still noticeable, but now it's a lil' bit more than noticeable - it's quite aggressive for under half a minute then it quiets down and eventually completely fades. It only lasts for a couple of minutes max, and the severe part lasts maybe 20 seconds. Thoughts?!? Thank you, Sam |
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kniuk
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  Member No: #1287
Location: Kolobrzeg |
Check faults via lexia, check glowplugs. Also there are special engine mountings in front and rear, near connection between engine and gearbox that are controled via engine ecu (vacuum pump). Those mounting play role in minimising vibrations for engine speeds up to 1500rpms. Regards, Jacek |
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cruiserphil
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    Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
Could be faulty glow plug! Regards, Phil C. |
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smihaialex
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Member No: #1031
Location: Bucharest |
The temperature wasn't sooo bad in Bucharest... I haven't seen the glow plug dash light come on but once, and that time, the car didn't shake... By contrast, the one time the car shook a bit more aggressively the glow plug light didn't come on... Anyways, seems to have quieted down for the time being, so I'm not worried... Thank you for all your messages. Regards, Sam PS: and a Merry Christmas and Happy Holidays to everyone!!! Hope you've been good and you'll get something nice from Santa 
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smihaialex
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Member No: #1031
Location: Bucharest |
Hey guys, Quick update... It stopped shaking (fingers crossed on both hands and feet) ((: It did it for a couple of mornings/evenings, when I first wrote the post but now, I haven't had any occurrences in weeks... Also, regarding the squeaks of the accessories belt... After writing the post I remembered that after the LDS contamination, I successfully used a can of engine and transmission cleaning fluid spray that's marked as friendly for ruber parts and electric wires and connectionsto clean up the spil and it worked. Then however, I poured a 5 liter plastic bottle of windshield washing fluid in and spilled some over and it is only then that the weird squeak appeared. So, naturally, I proceded to buy another can of engine and transmission cleaning fluid spray (the last one on the shelf at my local hardware store) and cleaned up the belt and the rollers and the tensioner and now the sound is gone. It purrs like a happy kitty And now, thinking about it, I find it funny that I didn't figure it out sooner. I mean, after all usually when there are weird noises coming from a belt, it's not from an oily substance - they (oily substances) do harm in their own way, in the sense that they might corrode, or the might cause the belt to slip, or any other stuff like that, but very rarely cause noises. It's water and watery substances that cause the belt to make noise. And if you don't believe me, just take a toy water gun and shoot some water at the accessories belt while the engine is idling - you'll hear the exact noise that I was hearing for a couple of seconds each time I first started the car. Anyways, in conclusion, the shaking went away by itself, and the belt squeakiness went away with help from some engine and transmission cleaning fluid in a can Cheers, Sam |
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C6Dave
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 Member No: #1
Location: Northumberland |
Bad batch of fuel then Sam? | ||
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smihaialex
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Member No: #1031
Location: Bucharest |
Most likely Dave, most likely...  And you know what? I found the strangest thing, and now that I think about it, it may have something to do with it... At my favourite gas station chain (Rompetrol) the Regular 51 grade Diesel is SAR EN 590 compliant but has 0% Bio Diesel content, while the so called Premium 55 grade Diesel is also SAR EN 590 compliant but has a min. Bio Diesel content of 5-7% and costs 5 pence more per liter... Thus, I've decided to stop using the Premium grade and stick to the Regular and maybe that's why the shaking stopped... We'll probably never know for sure, but usually temporary stuff like that does not come from any major hardware malfunction. Hardware does fail, but when it does, it usualy stays that way, it doesn't heal itself over night. And that reminds me. Here's a Quick Tip: whenever one encounters engine trouble of any kind, from a simple engine hesitation when cold, to what seems like a very bad malfunction causing the car to go into limp home mode with no or low power, weird noises etc, the first thing one should do is to change the fuel filter - it's simple and cheap and 90% of the time it will fix things. Something as simple as water in the fuel filter, has the weirdest consequences - low pressure in the intake manifold, too low or too high pressure in the turbos. For instance last February, if you remember, I went to my Garrage devastated because my Six was misbehaving badly... The initial estimation was to replace both EGRs, at least one turbo, some sensors and possibly one or more engine management components, but in the end it all came down to just replacing the fuel filter for a whopping 20 Pounds Sterling ((: Cheers, Sam |
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drummond
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  Member No: #238
Location: Aldeburgh |
Eh wot, Sam- mine cost £57.64 +VAT. Yesterday! Tim |
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smihaialex
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Member No: #1031
Location: Bucharest |
In Romania it's 20 £ for OEM replacement plus labour, which isn't much Sam |
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