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Suspension problems |
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smihaialex
 
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  Member No: #1031
Location: Bucharest |
Thank you for your message @Josok - very thorough explanation - on my way to buy contact spray right now  Cheers, Sammy |
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smihaialex
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Member No: #1031
Location: Bucharest |
Hey guys, Visited my C6 today. The connector that was needed - the connector for the HP pump, is the one you can see in the middle of the picture in my previous post. They fitted it, they fitted the new pump, the new pipe, new LDS fluid, and even though they still have some settings and the height adjustment to perform, everything suspension related seems to be working perfectly - no other leaks and no other damage The bad news is that they saw some coolant leaking, somewhere near the thermostat chamber (the one that exploded and was replaced with a brand new OE unit some six months ago). They suspect the o-ring seals of the thermostat chamber, and I suspect they might be right, because I have a hunch that when they replaced the thermostat casing, they didn't bother to also change the o ring seals  Anyways, I'll find out tomorrow. Bottom-line, we're not out of the woods yet, but getting closer each day Cheers, Sam |
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smihaialex
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Member No: #1031
Location: Bucharest |
So, As promised, updates... Suspension-wise, after fitting the new pump and the new connector, pouring in the new LDS (BTW, how much LDS does the system take in?), everything seems to be working just fine - it goes up and it goes down, no leaky struts, no collapsed spheres, ride quality is on par. The only bad thing is that in Lexia/DiagBox there are two errors - one is about the rear-left AMVAR actuator and the other is about the rear-left ABS/ESP something (I think that they are somehow connected seeing that they are both in the rear-left). The only question that I have now is - should I fix this? Is it important? I'm asking because, I'm not sure if it's the actual sensor or actuator or a cable issue, and after everything that happened, I just don't trust these guys to fiddle with my car (read on and you'll find out what I'm talking about). Cooling system wise after fitting the new thermostat housing o-rings and the new pipe, and the new coolant, it doesn't leak anymore. The not so cool part, is that when fitting the new o rings, the [%*^#@!]-head working on my car didn't assemble the turbo and throttle intake pipe properly (the one that is clipped into the upper left corner of the UHZ engine). The effects of this mistake were catastrophic - the car didn't accelerate, there was no power, the gear changes were delayed, engine sound was off, black smoke was coming out of the exhaust and the DPF got clogged almost instantly. I called them and told them that this is not my car - that I brought it in with a dislocated shoulder and they gave it back to me with cancer - that I'm afraid to drive it in this condition. The [%*^#@!]-head (another [%*^#@!]-head) on the phone, told me not to bring the car back because all of this is caused by the fact that the car had been sitting for such a long time and that I should fill her up and take her for a spin on the highway, which I did. Guys, let me tell you, I have never been more afraid in my life - for a second I was afraid that my car will catch on fire and that I will not survive - black smoke, so bad that it turned the chrome ornaments on the exhaust and the left side of the rear bumper matt black, no power, no proper gear changes - anti-pollution system faulty - warning - the DPF will get clogged - major WTF moment. Took the car back to them urgently, stormed in and demanded to speak to the manager - they took two cars out and put mine in immediately - they put Lexia/DiagBox on - 20 something errors popped up - 12 of which on the SSI (engine management) - turbo pressure too low, air intake pressure too high, air supply differential pressure blah blah. The guy popped the bonnet, took a flashlight, looked in that exact spot (upper left corner of the engine) - there was oil everywhere - he called the guy (the initial [%*^#@!]-head) and they put that piece of air piping back together properly and now the car is working just fine, but who's to know what are the long term effects of this [%*^#@!] up... What do you think? (feel free to speculate) Long story short - I'm going to ask them to do a free oil and filters change (that's the least they could do for me), if not, I'm going to pursue legal action against them. That's it from me (sorry for the long post, but I haven't been here in a while). Looking forward to your chimes on my questions... My best, Sammy PS: all in all, everything considered, I'm still sooooo happy to have my car back... I missed it
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darrell
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  Member No: #699
Location: Hampshire |
I think you need a new garage... | ||
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smihaialex
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Member No: #1031
Location: Bucharest |
Most definitely! | ||
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e3steve
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   Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
Well, Dave was right on the money with the suspension pump fuse rating! Mine decided to pop the 50-Amp fuse that I'd fitted. And another, upon replacement. I upped it to an 80-Amp and checked the pump motor's current-draw: it had gone from being between 15 and 30 Amps, depending on load, to being circa 90 Amps! At one point, my clamp meter recorded 149!! Off with the bumper; out with the r/h headlight. I pulled the end plate off the motor in situ, hoping to find a mere cruddy brushes issue and found that the electrolytic capacitor (2.2-microFarad/63-volt) had exploded. I also observed that the two inductors on the brush ass'y plate had been getting super hot. Which came first? The overheat, caused by excess brush material residue -- there was much! -- thus taking out the cap., or the cap. failing causing the inductors to have to work harder? I replaced the capacitor with two in parallel, each with a 100-volt rating. Nailed it all back together; no change. Bummer! Closer inspection revealed that four or five of the armature windings had parted, close to where they attached to the commutator. I found a C5 pump on eBay and at a reasonable BiN price. It arrives today, so I'll report back with the result. With the appropriate tools it is possible to separate the motor and pump without removing the entire assembly from the system. Don't let anyone say otherwise; I've done it! |
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e3steve
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Member No: #1163
Location: Warsash, Hants & Palma de Mallorca, Spain |
Well, the C5 pump ass'y arrived within thirty hours of buying it for £95 (inc Interlink Express delivery) on eBay! I stripped the 'Gate' motor to check it out and it looks in very good order inside, in spite of wearing a label stating "03/06". The part number differs from the C6's but, to all intents & purposes, it's pretty much the same. The connection unit isn't as weather-protected, so I put it all back together with silicon grease between all joints and connections. Installed it onto the pump and, with a bit of faffing about with a telescopic magnetic tool and various quarter-inch drive attachments I managed to get all three screws tight. After checking with my clamp-meter I've now replaced the 'uprated' fuse with one of the OEM's 40-Amp rating; the motor pulls 36 Amps, full load and pumping, but I've left my external fuse mod in place for now. Result? Time will tell.... |
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smihaialex
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Member No: #1031
Location: Bucharest |
Wow ! Congrats! Amazing DIY job to pull off... #applause Cheerios, Sam |
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viorelovidiu
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 Member No: #2684
Location: Bucharest |
Hi smihailalex, I have a C6 like you, from Bucharest too  I think I'll need sooner or later a repair/replace of HP Pump. Can you tell me if the motor pump (electrical part) is the same on c5(x7) and c6? Thanks! |
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