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Auto gearbox fluid change |
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Tonyjoc
 
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  Member No: #1357
Location: Rushden |
Planning on changing the fluid in my autobox but the download 'DRAINING - REFILLING - LEVEL : AM6 AUTOMATIC GEARBOX' has a dodgy picture and I cant locate the level plug. Could anyone please describe where it is or maybe have a decent picture? Thanks and regards Tony |
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gmerry
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   Member No: #21
Location: Scotland |
Hi Tony, the level plug is short tube that is part of the drain plug. Under the car, with the undershield removed, use a torx key to remove the inner plug out of the drain plug. Then use a 17mm hex key to remove the drain plug: its obvious then how the level system works (its an internal weir). Regards G |
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Tonyjoc
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Member No: #1357
Location: Rushden |
Thanks Gerry, As you say, it's obvious once you've seen it. Shocked how dirty the fluid is, reckon it will need 3 drain/refills to do the job properly. Decided to measure the exact quantity removed and refill with same amount since I can't guarantee vehicle is level. After the 3rd change I'll get it on a ramp somewhere to check the level correctly. Regards Tony |
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Ranger12
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  Member No: #4492
Location: Somewhere in the darkest recesses of England |
Hi there, I thought about creating a new post, but decided adding to this post might be cleaner. I wish to replace all of my automatic fluid in one go, and have noted there is a method utilizing the internal fluid pump, via the oil cooler pipe connectors. I also note that this method uses a special pressurized reservoir. I am wondering if it is possible to do this without the special reservoir, and instead using two large 15 litre containers, one for the old oil coming from the out-flowing pipe, and the other pipe submersed (after thorough cleaning) to the bottom of the container with at least 2-3 litres more new, clean oil than the 7 litres required (10 Litres total)? The method I propose, would be to run the engine as per the instructions, but then to turn off the car when the new oil container drops down to the last remaining 2-3 litres (the hose end would have to remain at the bottom of the container throughout to eliminate air getting into the system, and it would be a good idea to mark the container to indicate the excess oil level as I obviously don't want to overfill), then refit the hoses, and then (being fastidious), drain and top up as per the part-change instructions, in order to remove as much of the old oil (and any smaller particles not picked up by the filter or exchanged in the previous method). As my car has done 138k, and I have no idea if the automatic fluid has ever been changed (apart from a recent part exchange), I really want to get 100% of the old oil out, or at least as close as is feasibly possible. I don't mind the extra expense (I estimate potentially 5 litres of new oil might be wasted, though with care this can be reduced to around 1-2 litres I think). I think too that currently I likely have a mix of old Citroen recommended oil, with new cheaper oil, and am keen to flush it all out in favour of the top oil recommended. Does this sound to anyone like a 'No-No-No!!!' idea, or a feasible option? |
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arconell3
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  Member No: #922
Location: Kalkar |
Flushing your auto transmission is by far the better option as compared to (partial) drains and refills. However, I wouldn't recommend doing it yourself. Your transmission has an oil (ATF) cooler, fitted with a central bolt onto the transmission housing. That has to come off and will be replaced with an adapter which in turn is connected with the flushing device. Flushing consists of running fresh ATF into the box, while at the same time replacing the old ATF. The 2 flows, fresh in and old out, are run through transparant tubes, so you can watch the progress in that the ATF coming out changes colour from very dark to almost translucent, the same colour as the ATF going in. That means of course that you need to use more fresh ATF for this process than the capacity of your box, because part of it comes out again mixed with the old ATF. Once done, the oil cooler is refitted again. To do all that properly, you need a lift and a proper flushing device, the adapter, etc. otherwise you have no idea what is happening. There are several workshops in the UK offering a flushing service, all you need to do is find one that has a fitting adapter for the Aisin AM6 gearbox. Regards, Robert |
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Fraunie
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Member No: #3763
Location: Stockdorf |
I think Robert is right. You need a controlled set-up and it is necessary to observe the whole process precisely. I do flushing gearboxes myself in a garage with a device from "Motul-Evo". It is important to control the input of oil and the outcome, during the engine running. It is getting very stressful very quickly if you aren't a 100% sure how much oil you are having already in and out... |
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cruiserphil
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  Member No: #38
Location: Celbridge |
Hello Ranger12, I have to say the partial change has served me well over the years. I normally drain and refill twice, taking the car for a run in between to circulate the fresh oil. Usually I end up using about 6 - 7 litres of oil at a go. Best regards, Phil C. |
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C6Marcy
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 Member No: #4417
Location: South West |
cruiserphil wrote ... Hello Ranger12, I have to say the partial change has served me well over the years. I normally drain and refill twice, taking the car for a run in between to circulate the fresh oil. Usually I end up using about 6 - 7 litres of oil at a go. Best regards, Phil C. I have used the same method, my theory is that although it's not a proper flush it's better than leaving the old oil |
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arconell3
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Member No: #922
Location: Kalkar |
True! However, a major advantage of the flushing method is that you can combine it with an intermediate cleaning flush, which certainly in Germany, is more or less the standard procedure. Certainly when you are already noticing problems, like flares and jerkiness when shifting gears, the cleaning step will remove deposits inside the box that usually cause these problems. Cleansing agents for automatic transmissions are available from a number of manufacturers, like Liquid Moly and Motul. Some of these agents can also be used as an additive, but should normally only be used for a short period before draining and refill, which have to be done multiple times to get all the old ATF and the cleanser out of the transmission again. Regards, Robert |
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Ranger12
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Member No: #4492
Location: Somewhere in the darkest recesses of England |
Thank you all for your advice, clearly I need to find an expert to do this job properly, so I won't be attempting the modified method I proposed as I don't have the right equipment or space. I really would prefer a full clean and flush, but only from someone who is experienced, as I have read that high-pressure flushing can damage the gearboxes if not done right, and my gearbox already appears to have been negatively effected by just one partial (mixed oil) oil change. I have nearly run out of money now though. I spent a lot to get this car serviced and checked, then repaired, and now I have a car that isn't working as well as when I bought it only a few weeks ago, and new faults which gall me as they didn't occur whist in my care (I've barely driven or been anywhere in my C6 yet), and appear to be as a direct result of getting it fixed. My local garage is also unhappy with me for posting things about their work on here (insulted they said), but then if they'd only bothered to check the wealth of information on here instead of getting uppity at me because of their mistakes (rather than look to see what I'd said about them), I wouldn't have felt it necessary to reach out to others with my troubles. Anyway, I've said nothing here that I haven't first said to them to their face. Isn't it strange how the 'crime' of complaining about my experiences is seemingly far worse than the damage and 'mistakes' they have done to my car, my trust, and arguably my wallet. |
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cit-rotti
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Member No: #3753
Location: Bayern |
Hello, For hobby screwdrivers there is an easier way to change the complete oil of the Asin gearbox. Usually, gear specialists use for rinsing and filling in addition to the technical. Device an adapter that fits in place of the water / oil heat exchanger. No adapter is required, just a banjo screw instead of the M 8x1 threaded screw at the bottom of the water / oil exchanger of the gear unit. The Asin transmission has its own oil pump, which can be used. Material requirements: about 12 - 15 ltr. Gear oil a hollow thread screw (inside 4-5mm) M 8x1 instead of the screw M 8x1 a transparent tube 8mm - 2m long an empty 15 liter container two people are required Method: 1. Drain the oil at the bottom of the gearbox - about 3 liters as usual when changing partial oil 2. Fill up with 4 liters of new oil instead of the approx. 3 liters of used oil that has been drained off. 3. Remove the M8 threaded screw at the bottom of the heat exchanger and screw in the hollow thread at this pressure measuring point, connect the transparent hose and secure it with a clamp - insert the end into the 15 liter canister. 4. Start the engine and watch how the gearbox is flushed and the dirty oil is pumped into the canister - the filler opening - at the top of the gearbox - can remain open - so that fresh oil can be refilled via a filler funnel with a hose. The pumping is done by the transmission oil pump. 5. Ignition / engine off immediately if air comes in - by a second man. 6. then refill 2-3 liters 7. Start the engine again and watch .... repeat this process until the oil comes out as fresh as you pour it in 8. Finally, top up the gearbox oil according to the factory specifications and measure using the drainage screws.. Greetings Wolfgang |
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